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Accordion Straps

mhseeger73

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Hi everybody,
My accordion is moving a lot when i play it, so I'm thinking its partially my accordion straps. I don't know how they're supposed to be set up so i have been spending much of my time messing around with them. How are they supposed to be set up? How is the bass strap supposed to be set up?
Thanks!
 
Do you have a back strap? If not, that will help tremendously. I actually prefer 2 back straps - a high one that keeps the left strap from slipping off my shoulder that I hook together by reaching up behind my head, and a more traditional lower back one. Your right strap should be considerably longer than the left so as to allow the left side of your keyboard to be in line with your chin when facing straight ahead. This is assuming you play piano or chromatic accordion. Unfortunately, the placement of most strap brackets do not allow for good playing position without the right strap digging into your neck. To solve this problem, I added an extra bracket to the top edge of my keyboard. This is great for seated playing, which is mostly what I do, though the original bracket works better for standing. As for the bass strap, it should be tight enough that you have a solid grip on the bellows, but not so tight that it hurts. I will actually adjust the tightness slightly for different situations. For example, if I know I'm going to be doing a lot of bellows shaking in a song, I will make it a little tighter. If I'm going to be playing on either of the extreme ends of the bass buttons (say in a remote sharp or flat key) I will loosen it a little.
 

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Here's the setup I have, if it's any help. Note the high and low sets of back straps and the difference in length between the two straps. Of course, every accordion and every body is different, and you'll have to find what works for you.
 

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Some basic principles:
1) The left shoulder strap is supposed to be shorter than the right strap. Do not have them the other way round by mistake.
2) The straps should be tightened to still not feel restricted, but tight enough so the accordion does not move left or right when you push or pull.
3) The straps should such that when you sit down to play the bellows rest on your left leg and your chin is centered over the keyboard. When you stretch out your right arm, then bend the forearm, keeping forearm+wrist in a straight line your hand should end up right where you need it to play. If your fingers touch the grille then the accordion is too far to the right and you need to make the left strap shorter and right strap longer.
5) A back strap is a good idea on larger accordions. Some people even use two back straps for an even more stable position.
4) While playing both the top and bottom bellows straps should be open. (For some very strange reason unknown to me some accordion teachers used to teach their students to keep the bottom strap closed...)
5) The bass strap should be tight enough so your hand still touches the base plate when you pull, but not too tight because your hand should be able to move up and down while playing.
 
thanks! this has helped me a TON!
Anybody have any advice on how to keep my accordion at the same volume level as when i am pulling (louder) to when i am pushing (quieter)?
Pull and push supposed to be in the same volume. You get used to that. Next question probably will be how I keep the volume balanced with the bass and treble. You push bass buttons quickly and dont make them pushed long (Staccato) This will balance the melody and the bass. Will take time to learn that
 
Pull and push supposed to be in the same volume. You get used to that. Next question probably will be how I keep the volume balanced with the bass and treble. You push bass buttons quickly and dont make them pushed long (Staccato) This will balance the melody and the bass. Will take time to learn that
I've observed that pushing is harder as you work against gravity. But the disparity I'm the volume might also be because of problems in the instrument itself.
 
My new Petosa 37 key is the most comfortable accordion I have ever played (in over 40+ years of playing). Probably because it is 21lbs (not 30) and 17" keyboard length. Who knew??? I certainly did not. Until now....
Lightness is very important who really work on this instrument. That was one of the reasons I bought brand new Hohner Amica And Bravo. There are many other reasons too actually. (Second hand market is very bad and expensive in Turkey, I m sensitive to small details etc.) Hohner Amica 4/120 bass 41 keys 11 registers (no cassotto): 21 Lbs.
 
If you've got an oddball accordion (it's me) you might look at this place, where you can specify material, design, length, fasteners, etc, etc, custom. I haven't tried it yet, as I've been able to adapt straps to the accordion I just bought (restored Hohner L'Organola - B/C (4 voice) with a 36 bass mini stradella (5 voices on the bass, no registers). For old Scottish music fans, this instrument model is probably the one heard on Sir Jimmy Shand's earliest recordings.

Anyway, strap possibilities, with tons of fabric designs, but maybe just US/Canada, I don't know...


I also made a new bass strap system with cam buckles, solid leather, and a shoulder bag pad. This seems to work well, as if (when) the leather stretches you can just tighten it. (Mind you this is on an almost 100 year old melodeon that's had a...rich...life and is by no means a museum worthy instrument, but the LMMM sounds GORGEOUS.)
 
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If you've got an oddball accordion (it's me) you might look at this place, where you can specify material, design, length, fasteners, etc, etc, custom. I haven't tried it yet, as I've been able to adapt straps to the accordion I just bought (restored Hohner L'Organola - B/C (4 voice) with a 36 bass mini stradella (5 voices on the bass, no registers). For old Scottish music fans, this instrument model is probably the one heard on Sir Jimmy Shand's earliest recordings.

Anyway, strap possibilities, with tons of fabric designs, but maybe just US/Canada, I don't know...


I also made a new bass strap system with cam buckles, solid leather, and a shoulder bag pad. This seems to work well, as if (when) the leather stretches you can just tighten it. (Mind you this is on an almost 100 year old melodeon that's had a...rich...life and is by no means a museum worthy instrument, but the LMMM sounds GORGEOUS.)
These are not suitable for heavier accordions. I tried once something like this. There was an accordion at the choir I played they ve given. It was horrible 😁
 
Yes, the gravity is always holding me down. especially when i close the bellows
I think you'll have to consciously make that adjustment. One tip that might help you is to mark consistent bellows opening and closing in the songs that you play. That way, you'll be playing certain measures while opening the bellows and certain measures while closing the bellows and that's how you'll ALWAYS play. By doing this your are eliminating one of the variables in your performance and you can play closer attention to your bellows.

Let's say you didn't press the bellows hard enough while closing. You change bellows every two measures (this might not always work, so you'll have to mark bellows switch in advance). But if you mark every two measures to change bellows direction, you'll notice that your bellows didn't reset after every cycle. Since you're not closing all the way, your bellows will be more open after every cycle. This can help you identify the problem and also to monitor it and fix it.
 
These are not suitable for heavier accordions. I tried once something like this. There was an accordion at the choir I played they ve given. It was horrible 😁
I think they also offer wider straps, but yes, for a 13kg monster, you'll want some padding, maybe two back straps.
 
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