Hohner Virtuola iii in need of TLC

[Keelbolt]

I recently acquired a Hohner Virtuola iii 120 bass that looks well played but had reportedly been sitting in its box for years. I can't find much info about the Virtuola iii, but despite a few notes that play and won't stop when the bellows are pushed ( I suspect some leathers are either curled or stuck open) it sounds strong and in tune.
Firstly, I'd welcome information on the instrument itself. Can anyone suggest what sort of date-range were these made? I suspect German rather than Chinese, but would like confirmation? And is it a reasonable instrument? Anyone else have one?
Secondly, I need to address the following issues on the instrument:
Reed Bed Issues
1. There are about two or three treble notes that won't shut off when the bellows are played - either in or out. So I need to take the front cover off and have a look at the reed boxes. Hopefully its just curled or hardened leathers? Do Hohner Virtuolas have leathers about the reeds? Anyone got any tips? I will take some photos once I get to the reed boxes / frames.
2. All the bass notes play, sound good and solid, and are in tune. Nice.
Action Issues
3. The tabs that change the voicings are very stiff - again, lack of use? And there's a bar below the keybed that acts like a piston on an organ - resetting the voice tabs / resetting to neutral?. That too is very stiff. What's the best way to free these up?
Missing Straps
4. And most annoyingly, I was expecting a strap either side of the bellows to hold them closed when not being played. One side has a screw / twisting catch arrangement but no leather strap - guess either lost, worn out, or removed for some reason? And there no strap and no indication of fittings for one on the other side. Does the Virtuola iii only have a bellows strap on one side? If anyone has, or could take, a photo of the bellows holding straps (terminology?) that would be helpful so I can understand what is actually missing.
I'd like to use this instrument with the band this festival season, so a little bit of TLC work to be done. I'm ok with that as long as I don't have to replace reeds - tried replacing all the failed leathers in a lovely little lightweight accordion I was given in Bangkok, and just made a mess. Such a shame.
Thanks for reading this long post.
Richard

 

[Tom]

Welcome Richard! I’m sorry I don’t know this accordion but wish you luck with the repairs. I’m sure when you post pictures someone will offer advice.

 

[Glug]

Some Hohners have an internal bellows latch mechanism with a single switch between the bass strap adjuster and the bellows on the top side (in playing position).

Here's a Virtuloa III https://reverb.com/uk/item/40474095-hohner-virtuola-iii-120-bass-accordion
It has the same gold register switches as my 1959 Hohner Lucia IV P.
You can date them roughly by the switches - Hohner Atlantic is good for that as it was produced for years.

 

[Keelbolt]

Some Hohners have an internal bellows latch mechanism with a single switch between the bass strap adjuster and the bellows on the top side (in playing position).

Here's a Virtuloa III https://reverb.com/uk/item/40474095-hohner-virtuola-iii-120-bass-accordion
It has the same gold register switches as my 1959 Hohner Lucia IV P.
You can date them roughly by the switches - Hohner Atlantic is good for that as it was produced for years.

"Some Hohners have an internal bellows latch mechanism with a single switch between the bass strap adjuster and the bellows on the top side (in playing position)." AHH!! Thank you. I had thought this was part of a removed strap, the part that went through the strap and twisted to lock it. But you have got me thinking I need to check the mechanism to see if it's broken, repairable, or just not latching or something. Thanks.
Further comment: It didn't take long to find the patent document and description for this: https://patents.google.com/patent/US2197980A/en
This shows exactly what you suggest, and also indicates its connection with an air release valve. I now have the drawings from the patent to enable me to check the mechanism.

 

[ColoRodney]

Since the "always on" treble notes are active on the push and the pull, that suggests it's not a problem with the reeds inside but with the key mechanism. Take off the grille and see if the pads are closing all the way. Could be several different problems (keys, levers, springs, pads) but it should be easy to figure out where the problem is. As for the stiff registers, you'll have to figure out where they are binding and try to loosen them or straighten them. Don't add lubricants... those just attract and hold dust that will make its way to your reeds some day. The "palm switch" under the keyboard usually duplicates the "master" register switch, turning on all reeds.

 

[Keelbolt]

Since the "always on" treble notes are active on the push and the pull, that suggests it's not a problem with the reeds inside but with the key mechanism. Take off the grille and see if the pads are closing all the way. Could be several different problems (keys, levers, springs, pads) but it should be easy to figure out where the problem is. As for the stiff registers, you'll have to figure out where they are binding and try to loosen them or straighten them. Don't add lubricants... those just attract and hold dust that will make its way to your reeds some day. The "palm switch" under the keyboard usually duplicates the "master" register switch, turning on all reeds.

 

[Keelbolt]

Thanks, ColoRodney. Those are great guides and will save me a lot of time and probably a mess as well!

 

[Keelbolt]

OK, Inside the Virtuola iii.
First issue, as suspected, some of the leathers on the treble side have curled. Ditto on the bass blocks. However, it is also clear that someone in the past has replaced some of them already. Two photos prior to removing the reed blocks. The first shows some of the warped leathers. The second shows the previous, neat, replacement with something other than leather. Where can I order the same kind of replacement for the leathers?
Second issue: The Bellows Lock doesn't work because (a) the frame holding the locking mechanism on the switch side has been bent inwards, and the mechanism is warped. I suspect the Accordion was dropped when the bellows were locked. Should be fixable.
Advice very welcome....
Richard

 

[Glug]

There are generally 2 types of valve - leather or 'plastic'.
The wisdom I've seen is it's better to use leather for the lower notes and plastic for higher, and nothing for very high.

Here's what I did last time I revalved something (copying original booster usage)
E3 and below on L = leather + booster
Ab3 and below on M, M+ = leather + booster
Ab5 - B5 = plastic
C6 and above = no valave
Everything else = leather valve

I used to get my valves from CGM Musical but Charlie has retired.
You can still get Hohner plastic valves online though:

Hohner Reed Valve

Here you will find a rich assortment of original Hohner plastic and Vileda valves. • look shipment cost

www.stringsandboxes.de

Hohner Accordion Valves for sale | eBay

Find great deals on eBay for Hohner Accordion Valves. Shop with confidence.

www.ebay.co.uk

I would say stick to leather valves or the Hohner plastic ones.