How to open the case on a Hohner Morino VI M?

[John Doe]

Before I break out the crowbar and a wood chisel I'd be incredibly grateful if someone could tell me what clever and ingenious design the Hohner folks created to avoid the cosmetic horror of bellows pin heads on the accordion exterior.

There is probably some "twist something somewhere" mechanism which releases the upper (and lower) case from the bellows- but where? (and yes, I released the bellows lock!)

Embarrassingly enough, I'm a bit baffled!

Henry

 

[John Doe]

I suppose I should try twisting those seemingly pointless metal ninety degree arms under the grille and beheind the bass mechanism cover...

 

[Dingo40]

Henry,
Could it be like in this thread?

Hohner Atlantic IV Bellows Removal

Does anyone know how to remove the bellows on an Atlantic IV. There are no bellows pins. There are two small levers under the grille but I don’t want to force anything. Also I need to source bellow tape as it is worn at the top of the bellows at the corners. I’m in the UK. if anyone can point...

www.accordionists.info

In the Accordion Revival publication "Accordion Repair Made Simple" there's this section:
"In lieu of bellows pins, some aluminum bodied Hohner accordions have two lever latches under the treble grille that release the treble side from the bellows. On those models, remove the grille, rotate the levers 180 degrees, and lift the front of the treble cabinet off the bellows, then disengage the hinge clips at the back. Do not remove the screws along the back. To separate the bellows from the bass side of these accordions, first remove the bass cover, then release the two thumb clips and remove the bass machine and bass button board as an assembly, and finally, remove the five screws that fasten the bass cabinet to the bellows. The bass cabinet can the be lifted free of the bellows.

When the treble section first separates from the bellows, peek inside to see if any internal microphone wires must be disconnected before lifting it far enough to tear those wires loose from their mounting, which is often very fragile. Once the wires are unplugged, turn the treble section over and set it on the table with the reed blocks facing upward. Now you can inspect for bad leathers, cracked wax, missing reeds, loose reed blocks, etc."
Thanks, JimD!

 

[Big Squeezy Accordions]

You've got the right idea. After removing the grille, turn those two levers that you already noticed 180 degrees, then tip the keyboard section away from the bellows, opening the front part first. Easy. Removing the bellows from the bass section is a bit more involved. You'll need to unscrew the bass strap, remove the bass plate, and take out the four large screws at the four corners of the bass mechanism. Keep track of where they go, as they are two different lengths. Best of luck.

 

[John Doe]

Thank you both very much. I figured it out and it is indeed as simple as turning the levers!

 

[jollyrogeraccordions]

When putting the RH side back on…the logical thing is reverse the getting off…I.e. put the back edge on first. But in fact locate the front edge first and lower the back edge second…there are little spring loaded latches that grab the back edge. Otherwise it seems to be the most awkward thing invented to get back on.

 

[John Doe]

When putting the RH side back on…the logical thing is reverse the getting off…I.e. put the back edge on first. But in fact locate the front edge first and lower the back edge second…there are little spring loaded latches that grab the back edge. Otherwise it seems to be the most awkward thing invented to get back on.

Thanks- turned out to be a very straightforward mechanism once I realized what the levers were for. I had written them off as something associated with the grille placement- though they seemed pointless for that- until I realized that there were an identical pair under the back cover- voila.

The thing is rife with "good ideas"; the knob for a bellows clasp built into the grille, the pinless mechanism for holding the case together, the zippy system of catches for the reedblocks with springloaded stops to keep them from popping open, the easily accessed pallets for the bass with no mucking about with the bass machine, the spring loaded thumbslides RH and LH, the 120 Stradella AND the three row C system bass, the crutain-rod strap brackets, and the plastic slides in the RH base plate to work with the register switches... That last not so much.

One of the raised slots on the end of the plastic foundation plate slide that takes the arm for the register switches (one of the two cassotto blocks) was cracked and askew- making the mechnism really balky. As fate would have it when I looked into it, the other slide of the set (they work in tandems) had broken off altogether with the end result that the Morino will play L, LM, LMMM, LH, LMH but if you don't want the bassoon reeds you need to go elsewhere. More than a bit irksome, but there it is. At least the register switches for those limited combinations are now silky.

Anyone out there know of a source for a replacement slide? I suppose I could fabricate one out of aluminum- but while that would have been doable a few years back I'm afraid I'm just no longer up to it. It would appear to be quite the pain to get out and then in again in any case.

A nice full LMMMH will do for me most of the time anyway. Lately I tend toward hummable pop tunes; Gershwin, Berlin, How High the Moon pop, et al.

 

[boxplayer4000]

henry d: I was in the market for a missing bass slide in a Morino 1VM. Hohner, who I find always good communicators and helpful, explained they had spare slides for those old Morinos but they seem to have been stored away, perhaps in a hurry, and not individually identified. They need to have an original (even if its broken I suppose) so that they can identify a replacement. I didn't have broken parts so the process came to a halt at that point. A hand-made replacement I suppose is not out of the question but the end where the coupler mechanism engages with the slide is particularly tricky as its end is 'cranked' slightly; it's one of a pair, and the degree of 'crank' is critical.

 

[John Doe]

Thanks. I may try Hohner, though it'll come out probably in pieces and if I lose those pieces in the mail or through some understandable mishandling at the Hohner GHQ I'll really be up the creek. I had already noted the detailed design considerations that went into the slides. Great when they work. Going to be heck now that I need to fabricate....

 

[boxplayer4000]

henry d: At least you've got the pieces (it may come out in one piece). Hohner may be able do something with that. I recommend you get in touch, perhaps with a photo of the pieces. Even if they're lost in the post you could still, probably, get a pattern from the reed blocks.

 

[kimric]

Are you talking about Hohner USA or Hohner Germany? I found Hohner USA to be pretty useless. USA does not seem to stock any parts, and calling them gets vague answers and insane prices ($425 wholesale for a set of Bravo bellows that might be available in the new year). The same part from Germany (in stock!) was about 150 euros but they wont ship to the US.

 

[Ikesaccordions]

There is no Hohner USA. It was closed years ago and "KHS" in Nashville made a deal with Hohner in Germany to be the sole distributor in the USA and Canada. They only offer what is already in their catalog, and therefore seeminly no special orders.
A tornado struck near the KHS warehouse and COVID soon thereafter. It seems that KHS has never gotten back to "normal" which of course is just a setting an the clothes dryer LOL. Anyhow I sincerely wish for them the best.
Hohner Germany was sold to some Taiwan people some years ago, and I heard from a German sorce that they allegedly threw away some "outdated" parts.
Germany won't sell to USA or Canada anyway.
If your treble shift mechanism on the newer "Carmen" or the Atlantic wears out, you can't get one any more. I dreamed up a way to try to repair them, but haven't tested it out. I've got a 4/5 Swiss made Musette IV that needs one.