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Looking for info on Hohner Supremus

_viator

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Hello!

I'm hoping someone can help me with any information and perhaps an idea of value on my late grandmothers accordion, a Hohner Supremus.

I've contacted Hohner direct and I've been told it is model number 150/41/120/3 in the colour black-perloid, produced in the 1930's. They have also provided the serial number which is useful. But i still don't know much else about it. I've tried searching for this model online, and on places like eBay but haven't had much luck. I'm planning on selling it so it would be great to know if it was a common model or a bit rarer, and any tips on its potential value.

The accordion itself was very well looked after by my grandma so i am assuming it works fine with no issues. Its been stored away in its case for about 30-40 years, untouched.

I am absolutely clueless about accordions so any information would be much appreciated. Thank you! :)

IMG_6767.jpeg
 
Hi viator,

It’s a pretty accordion, and I hope your grandmother had great fun with it. I am not familiar with the Supremus model, but the “pre war (WW II)” Hohner accordions are known as being solid, good workhorse models. This one does not seem to have “register switches” so it is probably a beginner, or student model. It has value as a pretty collector instrument. However, it’s value to an accordion player will depend on its internal condition. Unfortunately, accordions left unplayed for many years very often face problems because the wax and leather can dry up and cause issues. You won’t know unless you try every note and/or inspect the interior.

Again, probably more value as a collector item. If it seems all good, and playable, maybe start at $150 and see what happens? Or better yet, learn to play it? Good luck!
 
Hi Viator

I don't have information on this particular model.
In my Hohner book I found a Tango IV model which looks remarkably similar.
Not sure how to decode the model no. model number 150/41/120/3
41 is the number of treble keys
120 bass knobs
3 maybe the number of treble chorus (in this case it would be a Tango III)
but 150? Maybe this is the model no.
I didn't find a model "Supremus" in the book's directory of models.
The Tango series is listed to be built 1935-37, both models came with 41/120 keys.
 

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Hi viator,

It’s a pretty accordion, and I hope your grandmother had great fun with it. I am not familiar with the Supremus model, but the “pre war (WW II)” Hohner accordions are known as being solid, good workhorse models. This one does not seem to have “register switches” so it is probably a beginner, or student model. It has value as a pretty collector instrument. However, it’s value to an accordion player will depend on its internal condition. Unfortunately, accordions left unplayed for many years very often face problems because the wax and leather can dry up and cause issues. You won’t know unless you try every note and/or inspect the interior.

Again, probably more value as a collector item. If it seems all good, and playable, maybe start at $150 and see what happens? Or better yet, learn to play it? Good luck!
Thanks, Tom! As far as i know, my grandma learned to play with this particular accordion and i think she did so at school, so you could be correct regarding it being a beginner or student model. I will have to give each note a try though i imagine a full interior inspection would probably be required by an expert for such an old model? Nevertheless, there's a shop near where i live that specializes in accordions, repair work and resale so i will contact them in the new year to take a look. Just wanted to be armed with as much info about this accordion before i go!

Thanks again for your reply (y):)
 
Hi Viator!
Hohner churned out a lot of these 120 bass boxes in the 1930s. Lots of them looked nearly identical and were equally similar inside, and none were particularly high-end, but like Tom says, they are well built and pretty reliable workhorses. I imagine yours has three voices - one low and two middle (LMM configuration) - and a palm switch under the keyboard to turn the low voice on and off.
Value fluctuates massively with these instruments, but they're never that expensive because A) they're pretty common and B) they're pre-war, and most accordionists prefer post-war models. An instrument in good condition could fetch a few hundred pounds, but one in bad condition could sell for less than fifty - if at all. The most important parts of an accordion are all inside the bellows, and as Tom says the wax that holds the reeds and the zillions of little leather valves deteriorate over time, so in order to get a good idea of the value you would need to (carefully) take it apart and look inside, or get somebody else to do it. Personally I'd advise taking it to a specialist to see what they say. Depending on where you are, someone on here will be able to point you in the right direction : )
 
Hi Viator

I don't have information on this particular model.
In my Hohner book I found a Tango IV model which looks remarkably similar.
Not sure how to decode the model no. model number 150/41/120/3
41 is the number of treble keys
120 bass knobs
3 maybe the number of treble chorus (in this case it would be a Tango III)
but 150? Maybe this is the model no.
I didn't find a model "Supremus" in the book's directory of models.
The Tango series is listed to be built 1935-37, both models came with 41/120 keys.
Hello! Thanks for your reply :)

You're right; the Tango IV model is very similar in design. Intriguing! I had no idea the numbers in the model number represented all of those things so thank you for clarifying. I might contact Hohner again and ask them to explain more clearly what they mean.
 
I have several in gray pearl like this. The reeds are better than at least 99.9% of accordions made now, EXCEPT if they had zinc reedplates which often oxidize to a white powder good only for treating fungus infections of the skin.
Even then you could usually still have really good reeds if you bathe them in a mixture of alcohol, perhaps ammonia, and baking soda and place them in a coffee can on a foot massage vibrator for a few hours.
BTW don't do that to aluminium reed plates. You could put baking soda on those but over time it corrodes aluminum and therefore has to be thoroughly rinsed off.
After treating the zinc wipe with a thin film of light oil to prevent oxidation and don't play in the rain or on the seashore.
 
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