Loose Reed Block Re-Melt Possible?

[Johnniez]

Hi all. Me again...lol Tired of me yet.. ??? ;-)

On further investigation of my Hohner Atlantic that I am trying to get going I have found a couple of loose reeds.. They are waxed in pretty good and a nail holding each one together..

I am wondering if I could use a long narrow tipped soldering iron to resurect the wax that is already there by remelting it all as I firmly hold down the reed block??

any ideas??

tnx
Johnnie

I just love this what ever it is called.. {}

 

[JIM D.]

http://www.accordionrevival.com/ACCORDION_REPAIR_2.php#Waxing_with_a_modified_soldering_iron

 

[Johnniez]

Thank Jim

I had looked at that but don't/didn't want to mess up the tip already have.. Guess I will have to do that. thanks again.

Johnnie

 

[TomBR]

I made a similar tool to the Acc Revival one from a bit of sheet aluminium, about 1-1.5mm thick. I cut it out with tin snips but a hacksaw would have done fine. I rolled the ally sheet into a tube at one end, around a largish drill bit, so that it makes a snug socket over the end of the soldering iron, secured with a twist of wire.
Took about 15 min to make.

Edit - Can't remember what wattage soldering iron I used, more than 15w for sure.

 

[Johnniez]

Hi and thanks for the tip..

I will do that.. Have lots of aluminum sheet around..

thanks again
Johnnie

 

[JIM D.]

These also work well -- http://www.amazon.com/SE-WP30-Wood-...deactivatedCard&sr=8-11&successUpdatingCard=1

 

[Johnniez]

Yes I have very similar and was going to use that. The wattage not as high tho. 15 watts .. think it might work.

Johnnie

 

[kimric]

You may not have much luck getting the old hohner wax to melt, most likely it will sort of burn/melt. even then it wont really stick.
You can take the wax off of the top of the reeds and lay a new bead to better effect.

 

[Johnniez]

ah ok thanks a bunch.. Good to know.

Johnnie

 

[debra]

Accordion wax is a mix of resin, wax and a small percentage of linseed oil which softens the wax and makes it more sticky. After 10 years or more (certainly after 20 years) most of the oil has evaporated causing the wax to harden. You can melt the wax but because the oil is gone it will harden again and not stick properly. You need to remove all the wax and apply new accordion wax.

 

[JIM D.]

I hesitate to disagree on this opinion on accordion reed wax, but I must offer some common facts on it's proper composition. Fine accordions makers have always used pure beeswax for it's longevity, and a small amount of rosin for it's adhesion properties to use for part assembly. Both beeswax and rosin will retain their properties for many years. Using linseed oil or shellac to take the place of rosin will in time harden and crack. I have and use a 1946 Excelsior Symphony that I have restored and the original reed wax (beeswax & rosin) is still pliable today.

 

[Jackflash]

I have to agree on the wax. You can definitely tell the stuff with high contents of anything but wax. Bee's wax will retain it's pliability indefinitely without the introduction of other factors (chemicals etc....)

 

[debra]

Reputable sources do say that accordion wax hardens after 20 to 30 years and remelting does not really help. I restored my old small (40 bass) Cruccianelli which was close to 50 years old. The was was very clearly beyond repair: hardened and not sticking after remelting. Fortunately after removing all reed plates and wax and rewaxing everything with new accordion wax (and replacing all leather valves with plastic) the instrument is good as new.

 

[JIM D.]

Again I have to comment on this misconception of bees wax. Bees wax just as bee honey will retain its properties forever as long as we know. Only the addition of another substance to the bees wax will cause deterioration such as petroleum oils. Tree resin in its pure form just as Bess wax have been found to date back !,000,000,000 years and still retain their same properties. The proper mixture of insect Bess wax and natures wood resin will retain its properties - for as long as we know forever. I must admit that at one time accordions of well make that have been made with reed wax of inferior mixtures have wax that has that has deteriorated over the now 60+ years. But you must remember in this period of time that bees wax in its pure form was a necessity in the manufacture of components in the war years and as a result were thinned with paraffin wax and petroleum. Well made boxes in the late 50s have reed wax that is still pliable to this day and when remelted will still retain its original properties. -- http://hiveharvest.com/beeswax-facts-and-faqs/

 

[kimric]

I don't know of anyone that uses pure beeswax, it's not really a issue of economy, but of getting the right flow/adhesion qualities.
The only wax that I have seen that flowed after 50 years was some mystery wax in a 1930's Wurlitzer. It flowed like it was fresh, but it smelled like crankcase oil when heated ,so it was at least partially petroleum based.
Vince Cirelli (Gurrini SF) showed me a few things and he had his own formula and so does pretty much everyone else I have run into.
I think the acidity of the rosin, and the type of linseed oil (boiled/unboiled) and other things added to give desired results effect the long term behavior.