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Mind Games

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Waldo

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I was going to put this post in T & L, but I didn't think there is either here.

I started out on a Paolo Soprani, French style CBA [all white buttons]. I sold it to fund the purchase of a new Beltuna Studio II CBA [both C system]. The Beltuna is fitted with black and white buttons. I figured this would be a boon to my playing. Imagine my suprise when I discovered that it screwed me right up. Now, I need to mention here that the buttons on the 'Tuna are a little closer than the PS [3/8" or 10mm over 10 buttons], which did result in some double notes and goofy chords, but, when I viewed the board while playing, it was like starting all over again! I needed to revert to the pattern I remembered in order to recapture a song. Weird, I thought. [this was one of the reasons I reverted to more scale practice].
In order to get better at "blind play" [not viewing my fingers], it was recommended to me that I play in the dark. So I did. And not very effectively. Since my switch over, and subsequent focus on playing scales, I began to close my eyes while playing, and discovered I could! Great, I'm on my way. Well, last night, while playing in my music room, eyes closed, the only light in the room suddenly went off [it was on a timer]. Now, while I had my eyes closed, I was still aware of the light having gone off, and my playing immediately went to pot! What's with that?
No responses expected, just thought I'd share.
 
Perhaps you should get yourself one of those little night lights used for children scared of the dark. Just an idea :D
 
Eyes closed, yes. This is how I play piano, and I've been trying to remember to play PA that way. For me at least, I play better with my eyes closed because somehow I feel more connected with the instrument and the music. Go figure.

With the light going off, perhaps it was just the sudden distraction that threw you off. If I'm playing and the dog suddenly barks at something outside it throws me off my stride, so to speak.

And I can imagine how button sizes can take a bit of adjusting to, similar happens with harmonica hole sizes and spacings, and also when I picked up PA. The keys are a different width to piano keys and so I was often getting bum notes and intervals. Much of playing an instrument is muscle memory, something I took for granted until I started learning accordion.
 
It's because you are human, silly! :b

In the dark, or eyes closed, or playing by ear are all muscle memory or subconscious programming. The second something comes up that makes your conscious mind take over, your subconscious mind drops into second place and all of your fingers immediately turn into thumbs :D
 
Although I "only" play a PA I never look at my keyboard hand. Not even for getting a start note. I've always done it by feel as my eyes are concentrating on the sheet music and that's distraction enough. When I'm in the mood playing with the lights down low and staring out into the dark through my study window is very relaxing. I wouldn't play in complete dark for fear of tripping over something. For some reason when I'm in my "relaxed" mood I like to stand and walk around a bit. Not sure why. :?
 
You would hope that on a button keyboard most accordions would have the same button size and spacing. There could be exceptions like with PA there are exceptions like lady size, or very small variations (like a 1 key difference over the entire length of a 41 key keyboard). But alas...
I regularly play the bass accordion and it has significantly larger buttons than a bayan or convertor accordion.
I also used to play a Bugari 505/ARS which has the same large buttons. My wife plays a 508/ARS/C which has smaller buttons, but the spacing is still a bit larger than on our other accordions. So in total we have to deal with 3 different sizes or spacings and it is very confusing for our muscle memory.
What helps me most to still find my way is that we have each C and F marked with a texture so we can feel where these notes are. We also have C and F marked on the convertor melody bass.
Looking down at the keyboard is not done so I do tend to not look (and with chin switches you dont even have to look down to find the right register switches either). So in the end the black and white buttons are just decorative. The colors do not have any function for the player.
 
Can I ask you Paul what you used to mark the C and F buttons with please. I want to mark mine but I'm not sure how to do it without making a mess of the keytops.
 
I have tried playing with my eyes shut on several occasions, though I sometimes have a sneaky peek when I'm not looking. It is okay with tunes I am very familiar with, but not so hot when I'm not absolutely certain of a tune.

Anyway, I'm not too worried about not being able to play in the dark, as we have paid our electricity bill.
 
Interesting. I often close my eyes when playing at home (when playing in earnest I need to watch the dancers) - I also listen to live performances with closed eyes more often than not, because I'm so easily distracted by visual clues. I've never tried playing in the dark though!
 
Rancoman; Dang it! I thought I was above all that. Q: If I have 10 thumbs, am I still human? Really, however, yours is a good explanation. (VP Dan Quail quote) The mind is a terrible thing [to waste].

The whole point, of course, of playing eyes closed/in the dark, is to remove the crutch of being able to look at the buttons. I found it interesting that the change in the key colors made such a change in me, even though I never depended on them in the past [French style, all white]. I dont view the board all the time, probably about 50%, mostly when learning. The exercise was/is an approach to get fully blind (I dont much like that term as part of my motivation to play music was the loss of sight in one eye) (yes, sucks very much).

Buttons: I too, have textured buttons that I find a great help. I have only replaced the 6 C buttons on my board. They allow me to be sure of where Im starting, without looking, as well as confirming where I am while playing. Sometimes, Ill want an A, but lite on the C [especially with the box switch], and be able to get back to the A in time, having felt I was on the incorrect C. I liked that.

***Liberty Bellows in Philly carries a large selection of textured buttons, in various sizes & colors. They cost $3.00 each.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Screw-Type-...-Parts-for-Repair-Assorted-Size-/162228800242
I bought #3 and like the silver rim, they looks nice on my box.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Non-screw-T...-or-Bass-Button-Part-for-Repair-/162221638952

In my experience, most buttons have a built in screw protruding from the backside of the button, like a thumb tack. They screw off with some difficulty. I made a custom plier from a needle nose plier I had on hand. I ground about 1/4 (8mm) off the business end [shortening the OA length], rounded off & tapered the outside surface of the jaws [in order to provide clearence between adjoining buttons] and then ground and file finished a small groove into the grip face of both the jaws, 1/8 (2mm) back from the new plier tip. This produced a plier that will grip the edge of the button without damage, and allow the application of twisting force without slipping off the button and garfing the button board. Worked great.
BTW, be SURE to START the replacement button by hand, and be sure it is aligned correctly before going to the plier. Failure to do so will create a new, mis-aligned, screw hole that will be difficult to correct.
Note that some buttons have a thru screw and others glue on.
PS, I was contemplating switching up the black and white buttons, if for nothing else than to confuse a potential thief. (Har, Har)
 
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