Reed Leathers !

[BellowFellow]

I purchased a used Crucianelli Accordion a few weeks back and after more detailed inspection I noticed the wax is in bad shape (Hard and Flaky).   I have decided to remove all the wax and replace the leathers.
It is a 41/120 with three treble switches - 2 reed blocks. I'm a total amateur so naturally made the ultimate mistake I'm afraid. I have removed all the reeds and carefully labeled the order on the blocks. I removed all the leathers on the reeds of one block without even thinking but left the leathers on the other block thinking I better have some reference  to size and thickness of the leathers. Is this a problem? Can I just match the size of the leathers on similar reeds on the second block when replacing leathers that I removed on the first? I'm just replacing the treble side first. ( Some leathers are thin - medium - thick  - etc ??) :s

I appreciate the help I have received on the Forum and would like to offer help in return - But I don't know anything !! :s lol

 

[John M]

There is another currently active thread on Reed Leathers under the topic "How Do I . . . . . " with good information.  This question would fit in that thread.

John M.

 

[BellowFellow]

There is another currently active thread on Reed Leathers under the topic "How Do I . . . . . " with good information.  This question would fit in that thread.

John M.

Thank You John,
I did see that thread but it does not answer what I was concerned about. Determining the size and thickness of the leathers for individual reeds - particularly the ones I removed.

Rick

 

[debra]

One reed block is for the white keys and the other for the black keys (and will have some empty spaces. The sizes on one reed block are a reasonable reference for what you need on the other block. So nothing bad happened.

 

[JIM D.]

See Here -- And give it a careful read ----
http://accordionrevival.com/ACCORDION_REPAIR1.php#Changing_Leathers

 

[oldbayan]

Thank You John,
I did see that thread but it does not answer what I was concerned about. Determining the size and thickness of the leathers for individual reeds - particularly the ones I removed.
Rick

You probably mean the reed valves? Many instruments now use vinyl valves that stay flat forever and are easy to trim and apply. They come in various sizes and can be purchased from places like Charles Marshall. They can be glued with various adhesives like craft Goop.

 

[Glug]

As was mentioned, read http://accordionrevival.com/ACCORDION_REPAIR1.php#Changing_Leathers first.

You can replace leathers with more modern vinyl valves, I prefer to replace leather with leather.

Leather valves only come in a limited range of sizes, I pick a replacement of the same width and cut it to be the right length (1/32 past the end of the reed vent (0.8mm)).
So the thickness of the leather is determined by what the supplier thought was right for that size of valve.
Cut the inside valve to the same length as the outside valve.

For glue I use Fabri-Tac which is easy to remove and difficult to cause damage with.


Warning: I'm not an expert but I have replaced valves on 3 accordions successfully.

Leather valves I use: http://www.cgmmusical.co.uk/CGM_Musical_Services/Reed_Valves.html#5
If you want to know what sizes that includes email Charlie (address on the site)

Fabri-Tac: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fabri-Tac-...d=1593531902&sprefix=fabri-tac,aps,161&sr=8-1


Edit: just spotted Iowa you can probably find a supplier closer than Scotland.

 

[BellowFellow]

You probably mean the reed valves? Many instruments now use vinyl valves that stay flat forever and are easy to trim and apply. They come in various sizes and can be purchased from places like Charles Marshall. They can be glued with various adhesives like craft Goop.

I sincerely apologize for not thanking you for your reply, I have not been back on the forum for a while - MANY THANKS !!

 

[BellowFellow]

As was mentioned, read http://accordionrevival.com/ACCORDION_REPAIR1.php#Changing_Leathers first.

You can replace leathers with more modern vinyl valves, I prefer to replace leather with leather.

Leather valves only come in a limited range of sizes, I pick a replacement of the same width and cut it to be the right length (1/32 past the end of the reed vent (0.8mm)).
So the thickness of the leather is determined by what the supplier thought was right for that size of valve.
Cut the inside valve to the same length as the outside valve.

For glue I use Fabri-Tac which is easy to remove and difficult to cause damage with.


Warning: I'm not an expert but I have replaced valves on 3 accordions successfully.

Leather valves I use: http://www.cgmmusical.co.uk/CGM_Musical_Services/Reed_Valves.html#5
If you want to know what sizes that includes email Charlie (address on the site)

Fabri-Tac: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fabri-Tac-118-56-Medium-Bottle-Clear/dp/B00178MNFO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3KXSSMZ1AXCSK&dchild=1&keywords=fabri-tac&qid=1593531902&sprefix=fabri-tac,aps,161&sr=8-1


Edit: just spotted Iowa you can probably find a supplier closer than Scotland.

I sincerely apologize for not thanking you for your reply, I have not been back on the forum for a while - MANY THANKS !! I do have a question please. How concerned do I have to be as for the thickness of the leather ? Some of the reeds have the equivalent of a #2 Leather which I did not receive in the selection I ordered . Can I sub # 4's? As you can tell I'm a complete amateur !!

 

[Glug]

What I would do is use the smallest leather that's wide enough and long enough and see how it sounds. On a few occasions (when I've run out of new valves) I've even trimmed 1mm off the width of a wider valve. Use a 'guilotine cut' with a Stanley knife and a piece of wood as a chopping block, scissors will result in a non-square end.

Apparently it's important to glue roughly the same amount of the valve as was previously glued - affects how fast it opens etc. I'm guessing if the leather thickness is too wrong you will notice the difference there.

I would say have a go at one reed block (or better just some really bad valves) and see how it sounds, you're bound to make a few mistakes at first. What you don't want to do is replace them all and then find you're doing something wrong. You can replace inside valves with the plates waxed in, it's quite easy with a bit of practise (head torch and locking forceps are a good idea).