Repair, replace, or manufacture air register mechanism?

[werewolf255]

Hey everybody!

Cross posting from my thread here for visibility.

I'm rebuilding a 12 bass accordion from the ground up and found that the air register was loose. When I unscrewed it from the wood, the last of the metal snapped.

Any ideas on fixing this? I'm gonna try soldering it back together but I'm open to other options as well.

 

[John Doe]

Soldering- I'd use "silver solder" which is noticeably stronger would probably be fine if I soldered at all. You'd have to jig it up carefully (I wouldn't solder in place) prior to soldering to get the alighnment just so and will probably have to redrill the pivot hole. Butt joint soldering is always trickier.

Actually, in this application I'd consider finding a piece of metal which you could trim to cover the broken area with perhaps 3/8 inches or so overlap. Final trim it with the patch on the bottom so you can clearly see what's up. Ensure that you scratch a good cross hatch pattern on the surfaces to be joined prior to gluing then place a smear of decent epoxy on the surfaces to be joined (JB Kwik- despite the clever name- should hold well.) Place them together and clamp them together with a spring clamp- the things used for chip bags will serve well. You'll have two to four minutes to get it just so. (Time may vary with other procucts)

WAIT a couple of hours. It'll be hard enough to handle after ten minutes but nowhere near full strength and it you flex it too soon it'll be a much weaker final bond even though it may look fine.

You can then drill the pivot hole. Actually, you could drill the pivot hole in the patch before cluing ant then use a pine/nail to align the hole while gluing. Draw the pin out before the glue hardens and then just clean it up after its all set.

I've used this on several occasions and the brace plus the original piece really is as strong or stronger than before the fix- the the epoxy lasts for scores of years.

Henry

 

[debra]

This looks like a fairly simple piece of aluminium. Just buy a sheet, cut it in the right shape, drill a few holes... very easy repair and it will be stronger than any repair achieves.

 

[John Doe]

You are, of course, absolutely correct. Any quasi-professional repairman would do that.

I presume that Werewolf 255 (and I'm flabbergasted to realize that there are 254 other werewolves on the forum...) is your average Joe/Jane in terms of equipment and access to supplies. Fabricating the part with aluminum sheet metal of sufficient thickness on hand, and good tools suitable for cutting/shaping the sheet metal without distorting it badly are pretty basic... but not readily at hand for most people. I could do this- but I spent decades repairing old musical instruments/motorcycles/juke boxes/pinball machines/ and the occasional clock. None perfect, but all fully functional afterwards with parts fabricated from what's available.

The spring metal finger wipers fabricated from sardine can lids with blobs of solder on the end for contacts have functioned perfectly on my jukebox selector mechanism disk for going on 45 years now.

He's rebuilding the thing from the ground up, so he may well have the tools needed, but if he doesn't...

All he needs for the sheet metal patch is a dime. Probably has one on hand... You don't even have to trim it. Sand it flat on one side, JD weld it on top of the aligned broken piece, appropriately aligned (perhaps held in place by good tape over the ends), drill the hole, and voila. If he drills the hole in the dime before gluing he can use the pivot post to help the alignment when gluing (gently move the pivot post screw when the epoxy first hardens to break any adhesion to the pivot post). By sliding wax paper under the area he can leave the thing in place (assuming the spring is disengaged) and just spread the epoxy, press gently, trim excess ooze as required with a pocket knife blade and wait. Epoxys are great at filling gaps. At worst he'll have to replace the pivot screw/nail; easily come up with and done. Colorful, but who's to see it and in the application ought to last approximately forever.

Nothing about this is precision. The pad has to land flat on the hole- and that alignment is effected by the third piece with the pressure via the spring.

Failing that he could buy a new assembly : https://www.libertybellows.com/shop...-Accordion---Pad-Size-125-x-125-x40458071.htm . Fifty bucks but there it is. He'll still have to fit it in place which might well be more difficult than either of our proposals.

New gazillion dollar but not warranteed Pagliachi Supremo- do it right or have it done right.

Part of a "rebuild it myself" and take pride in playing what I have wrought- your solution (to include affixing a through post at the upper end and unkown interface at the other end) is what you'd <Mr. DeBras> do at the drop of a hat, what I'd do after rummaging about pretty extensively ( though I'd probably use brass vice aluminum), but for many- possibly including the good Wolfman, for I don't know him from a hole in the wall- might be unneeded complexity with no real benefit.

My two cents- and given inflation that's worth less than one penny these days!

Good fortune to the Wolf whatever path he chooses to follow-

Henry

Sorry for typos

 

[Dingo40]

presume that Werewolf 255 (and I'm flabbergasted to realize that there are 254 other werewolves on the forum...)

 

[Dingo40]

The spring metal finger wipers fabricated from sardine can lids with blobs of solder on the end for contacts have functioned perfectly on my jukebox selector mechanism disk for going on 45 years now.

I firmed up the travel of the stroke on the accelerator-pump on my old VW beetle
(years ago) with a coiled strip of tin plate cut from the lid of a sardine tin: it worked fine for years until I sold it, my repair still in place.

 

[Rosie C]

Hey everybody!

Cross posting from my thread here for visibility.

I'm rebuilding a 12 bass accordion from the ground up and found that the air register was loose. When I unscrewed it from the wood, the last of the metal snapped.

Any ideas on fixing this? I'm gonna try soldering it back together but I'm open to other options as well.

I've never repaired an accordion, but I had to make a similar sort of part for a classic car a few years ago. I made a drawing and an internet company laser cut it from sheet metal for me.

 

[JKJ]

If ww255 doesn't have the tools and ability I suspect someone in his area does and he might even know them if asking around (FB?). Or ask at a local makers club, or a robotics club.

I would absolutely make a new part - looks simple. Disassemble, determine the material (aluminum, steel, galvanized steel, etc) and acquire suitable stock, make a template (from the old part), draw, drill, and cut it out from a suitable stock thickness, file and sand smooth. If you lived near I'd do it in a heartbeat. I cut out thin aluminum and brass parts like that using a bandsaw intended for wood but with a fine-toothed blade. Steel, I'll use a jig saw, scroll saw, or plasma cutter. If in a good mood I might use the milling machine. Someone with a CNC milling machine or, as mentioned, a good laser engraver/cutter could make it easily.

If cutting small parts from thin sheet metal with a jig saw it helps to sandwich the stock between two sheets of thin plywood, hardboard, etc. For safety hold parts securely when drilling with either a hand drill or drill press - spinning parts can cause serious injury.

If lacking materials I buy a lot of stock (sheet, round, square, etc) in various metals from OnlineMetals. Good prices, quick shipping. Call first and they will probably give you a discount code if you ask.

Note that some materials are not suitable for silver soldering. Some materials can be welded (I use TIG for small things), some repaired with reinforcement by epoxy if allowing for clearance (rough up the surfaces first). Skip the hardware store stuff and get good epoxy like System 3. A local weld shop might weld the broken part for cheap.

JKJ

 

[kimric]

Regular solder would work if you are using brass/steel, this part is not under a lot of stress. I use zinc chloride flux since you can almost solder anything together with it. You can but brass stock at hobby stores if there are any left. I have one of these assortment collections and it is really usefull https://www.ebay.com/itm/2347668897...uid=k4s6fDaORN2&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[werewolf255]

Thanks everyone!! These were super helpful suggestions.

I took the weekend and tried soldering, but a combination of initially using the wrong tool (soldering iron instead of plumber's torch) and impatience led me to using JB weld.

I used these nickel strips that are sold for making e-bike batteries: here



That's the initial fix from one side. It did the job of keeping both sides of the arm from moving so I could get a larger piece in place on the other side.



The bigger issue is that the break was along a bend that meant I couldn't use a clamp straight across. I put this together with some zip ties and a few pliers that I had lying around.

And finally, here's the before and after of the side with the spring arm. I didn't weld it into place but can confirm that there is very little tension put onto the metal.






@debra and @Rosie C : Thank you for your advice as well! I kinda needed to hear that, in case I really fouled up this bodge job. If I do any professional or paid repair work, I'll pursue making friends with a local metal fabricator. I feel like I could learn how to do it, but I'm already short of space with my current hobbies.