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Broken screw securing bass reed block/register pivot

Well done! Glad it turned out to be straightforward. Mechanically, it's a perfectly satisfactory solution.

I was critical of some Italian engineering practice in an earlier post, at least as applied to accordions. Of course, Italians aren't the only ones capable of shoddy work... Whether one considers the original arrangement good or bad is, I suppose, largely just personal opinion: it's not as if the fixing is operating anywhere near its limits (under normal circumstances...) - almost anything remotely sensible would do. However, I'm firmly of the opinion that, where removable fixings are employed (for instance nuts and bolts, as opposed to rivets), it is good practice to make it possible to remove them relatively easily, without having to do a major strip-down, just to gain access. To have to work from both sides of the foundation plate to fix this assembly, during construction, is cumbersome and avoidable. My opinion was hardened by ownership of a Land Rover: it contained fixings that had been inserted through the upper surface of various chassis members, before being rendered inaccessible by the body then being dropped onto the chassis. But modern car designers have taken inaccessibility to new heights!
 
My opinion was hardened by ownership of a Land Rover
As an owner of (in succession) a Triumph (car and motorcycle), a Sunbeam Alpine, and an MG with a Jaguar sedan lurking in the garage it is my considered observation that such convoluted engineering is a feature of British automobiles.

Two and a half hours later, after what should be a straightforward dissassembly/ replacement; "polite applause".

"Why do the British drink warm beer? ... "Their refrigerators are made by Lucas."

(Lest I give offense- wonderful products during the times they are working or I wouldn't have kept purchasing them.)
 
Well, my threaded spacer installed slick as can be after taking fifteen thou off the screw for clearance, held a nice, solid tension on the screw, and looks as clean as if it had always been there, with only it being silver instead of brass to show the change to an eye that knows intimately what metal the factory used.  Closed the instrument up and it plays just as well as it did before.

Thank you to all who provided helpful commentary.
Glad it worked out fine. You are now back to the situation you started from, but with the knowledge that the reed blocks should only be lifted out starting on the other side... Accordion repair is a continuous learning experience!
 
Well, Dingo, now I know that particular screw can safely be loosened in my specific instrument, which I might even find reason to make use of.  Looking back, it was probably the reed blocks fitting especially tight in my high-humidity climate that had me just concerned enough about the force I was applying to lift one out to ignore what the difficulty of loosening the screw tried to tell me.

You're certainly right that accordion repair is a continuous learning experience, Paul.  I'm fortunate in (usually) having a pretty good mechanical sense and access to a good set of tools, given that the cost of shipping accordions anywhere outside of the small area to which I can drive is ferociously expensive.  Hence also my interest in fixing up the once nice, if still relatively low-monetary-value 2/4 LM 120bass box of some sentimental value to gain experience.  Pretty sure it "just" wants new valve padding, new leathers, a complete rewax, and a new bellows.
 
Well, Dingo, now I know that particular screw can safely be loosened in my specific instrument, which I might even find reason to make use of.  Looking back, it was probably the reed blocks fitting especially tight in my high-humidity climate that had me just concerned enough about the force I was applying to lift one out to ignore what the difficulty of loosening the screw tried to tell me.

You're certainly right that accordion repair is a continuous learning experience, Paul.  I'm fortunate in (usually) having a pretty good mechanical sense and access to a good set of tools, given that the cost of shipping accordions anywhere outside of the small area to which I can drive is ferociously expensive.  Hence also my interest in fixing up the once nice, if still relatively low-monetary-value 2/4 LM 120bass box of some sentimental value to gain experience.  Pretty sure it "just" wants new valve padding, new leathers, a complete rewax, and a new bellows.

Akin to my Gran'Pa's axe - it's the one that he has used all of his life and has only had three new heads and eight new handles ;)
 
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