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Oldie that needs a lot of love

Joined
Jun 18, 2023
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Location
Effort, PA
Hi everyone - I’m Amanda, newbie. I’ve played accordion on/off for about 25 years (since I was 12). Yesterday, I saw the most beautiful accordion I’ve ever seen in person - at a super-shady flea market - and fell in love with the idea of restoring it. I was able to find minimum information about the brand, so I’m hoping someone has a little bit more about this specific accordion.
I’m also in need of a starting point! As you can see, the bass buttons have collapsed, there are no straps, no bellows-closing-straps, and no case. This is exactly how it was displayed in the market (the guy wanted $80, but I wound up paying $50). However, the bellows appear in good condition and it does make sound at least - that fantastic noise of all the bass buttons being pressed at once.
Any websites where I could purchase equipment or tools, or direction to any videos would be helpful. I’m still learning the correct names for all the parts, and this site has already been helpful. I’m looking forward to being a member of this community. Thank you!
245BC345-ACB8-485E-97EF-A22CFF4C0AA8.jpeg
 
Welcome Amanda! Wow, that's a beautiful pre WW2 accordion. It will have hand made reeds and is an excellent restoration project. Won't be worth a ton of money, but a real classic.

For tips, check out accordionrevival.com or ask on here.

Not sure where the best place today is for parts and tools but someone will chime in.

Good luck!
 
Looks like a nice old accordion. You may well, with patience, be in luck on the bass buttons. They are designed, as you know, to spring up after being pushed- but the springs that provide the motive force are the twelve springs (one for each tone in the scale) that operate the main pallets. When any given button is pushed down the spring involved has more than enough oomph (technical term...) to return it. When two buttons are pushed still true. But when a whole swath of buttons go down- as when the instrument is bumped hard on the backside and the sheer weight of all that metal in all the bass button shafts pulls the buttons down-the return is very weak. If a couple of those buttons wind up under the back plate (no longer lined up with their holes) or with the little metal arms on the shafts UNDER the arms on the rods for one of the notes on the pipes (the arms on the shafts of the buttons push down on the pipe arms when pushed, opening the applicable pallet and sounding the appropriate note(s)) then the buttons won't come up because they are either under the plate with the holes cut out for the buttons or they don't get pushed up by the pallet springs because the arm worked by that spring that is supposed to be pushing up is no longe under that arm and so can't push.

Since each bass button opens pallets opened by other buttons ( the primary notes appear multiple times and the notes in chords of course show up in many chords) a button shaft not being opened winds up affecting several other buttons. Fix the main culprit and the others should return to action.

But despair not! If you can cough up a long thin pushing device ( a knitting needle cut off behind the tip works fine as would any several inch long shaft with a flatted tip- ideally slightly notched or my personal favorite; a length of coathanger with a pliers induced sharp hook at one end to pull as well as push) and take off the back panel of the accordion (remove the bass strap at one end and there are a couple of screws holding the panel in) you can see all th shafts . Track down which button shafts are not going up and make sure that the button is able to go into its hole- just gently push it with the end of your rod into place. ("Gently" is sort of important- if you push on the long button rods in the middle sih substantial force they bend pretty easily- and then the button will bind in its hole. They can of course be straightened but that is another painstaking exefcise in itself.) If one is stuck down it will affect several others. Getting them all in place is like one of those old "get the little steel balls in the holes by tilting a picture under glass" games (or like raising kids...). You're best advised to work on the upper rows first and to be prepared to take a few deep breaths as others will want to pop back out of their holes while you're aligning away on the next candidate.

If you're really lucky they'll pop back into place and all will be well. If not then step "B".

Start patiently checking the button shafts that are completely lifeless to see that the little arms are OVER the spring loaded arms they are supposed to push down, (working one of the good buttons while observing will show you how this works). If under not over then gently coax it back into place with your rod. After completion odds are all will be well.

At no point should you start trying to remove any of the rods unless you're prepared for substantial and very careful tracking of what goes where and prepared for REAL chaos if you get mixed up. Most of the time rod/button removal is just not needed at all and you can get things going just fine by gently poking, prodding, and coaxing. The sunk buttons phenomenon occurs pretty regularly in shipped or carelessly bumped instruments and while irksome- it is not at all serious.


Truly- may good fortune smile upon you -
Henry


PS https://accordionrevival.com/ACCORDION_REPAIR1.php has good pictures and information. Mr B is aiming for a dgree of workmanship that is probably greater than what you're after here- much of the presentations involve pretty substantial tinkering which- in this case- probably isn't required to "just get it playing". One you've done that you can branch out if you so desire.

PPS I have terrible eyes and as a result proof terribly off a screen so I apologise for spelling and syntactic howlers.
 
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Welcome, Amanda!🙂👍
It looks to be in pretty good cosmetic condition , that's a good start!👍.
After that, time and patience. 🙂
Everything you need is available online.
There are several members who'll be willing and competent with advice.
"Bon voyage!"🙂
 
Looks like a nice old accordion. You may well, with patience, be in luck on the bass buttons. They are designed, as you know, to spring up after being pushed- but the springs that provide the motive force are the twelve springs (one for each tone in the scale) that operate the main pallets. When any given button is pushed down the spring involved has more than enough oomph (technical term...) to return it. When two buttons are pushed still true. But when a whole swath of buttons go down- as when the instrument is bumped hard on the backside and the sheer weight of all that metal in all the bass button shafts pulls the buttons down-the return is very weak. If a couple of those buttons wind up under the back plate (no longer lined up with their holes) or with the little metal arms on the shafts UNDER the arms on the rods for one of the notes on the pipes (the arms on the shafts of the buttons push down on the pipe arms when pushed, opening the applicable pallet and sounding the appropriate note(s)) then the buttons won't come up because they are either under the plate with the holes cut out for the buttons or they don't get pushed up by the pallet springs because the arm worked by that spring that is supposed to be pushing up is no longe under that arm and so can't push.

Since each bass button opens pallets opened by other buttons ( the primary notes appear multiple times and the notes in chords of course show up in many chords) a button shaft not being opened winds up affecting several other buttons. Fix the main culprit and the others should return to action.

But despair not! If you can cough up a long thin pushing device ( a knitting needle cut off behind the tip works fine as would any several inch long shaft with a flatted tip- ideally slightly notched or my personal favorite; a length of coathanger with a pliers induced sharp hook at one end to pull as well as push) and take off the back panel of the accordion (remove the bass strap at one end and there are a couple of screws holding the panel in) you can see all th shafts . Track down which button shafts are not going up and make sure that the button is able to go into its hole- just gently push it with the end of your rod into place. If one is stuck down it will affect several others. Getting them all in place is like one of those old "get the little steel balls in the holes by tilting a picture under glass" games (or like raising kids...). You're best advised to work on the upper rows first and to be prepared to take a few deep breaths as others will want to pop back out of their holes while you're aligning away on the next candidate.

If you're really lucky they'll pop back into place and all will be well. If not then step "B".

Start patiently checking the button shafts that are completely lifeless to see that the little arms are OVER the spring loaded arms they are supposed to push down, (working one of the good buttons while observing will show you how this works). If under not over then gently coax it back into place with your rod. After completion odds are all will be well.

At no point should you start trying to remove any of the rods unless you're prepared for substantial and very careful tracking of what goes where and prepared for REAL chaos if you get mixed up. Most of the time rod/button removal is just not needed at all and you can get things going just fine by gently poking, prodding, and coaxing. The sunk buttons phenomenon occurs pretty regularly in shipped or carelessly bumped instruments and while irksome- it is not at all serious.


Truly- may good fortune smile upon you -
Henry


PS https://accordionrevival.com/ACCORDION_REPAIR1.php has good pictures and information. Mr B is aiming for a dgree of workmanship that is probably greater than what your after here- much of the presentations involve pretty substantial tinkering which- in this case- probably isn't required to "just get it playing". One you've done that you can branch out if you so desire.

PPS I have terrible eyes and as a result proof terribly off a screen so I apologise for spelling and syntactic howlers.
Thanks Henry!
 
Looking at the photo I cannot see how the bass box is attached to the bellows. There should some screws.
If you detach the bellows you will have access to the reed beds. These are usually held in place by clips of some sort.
Once removed you will access to the button mechanisms and you will be able to see if the are bent or distorted.
With a bit of luck they will only need to be replaced in position.

When it all goes back together I think you will not have constant drone from the base side and all will be well.

Very pretty accordion!
David
 
Hi Amanda,

Yes, that is a vintage beauty of an accordion. Seeing this reminds me of the first accordion I bought over 40 years ago, also for $50, an "attic special" from some friends. It was a very similar looking instrument from the same period (the 1930s I would guess). This was a time of inexpensive labor when accordion builders could afford to ornately hand decorate these instruments, which were probably moderately priced, affordable accordions.

I have attached an old newspaper photo of me playing my first accordion. As you can see, it looks remarkably similar to your flea-market find.

So what happened to it? Well, I knew little about accordions back then, as I was just starting out. I did a few repairs ... (believe it or not, I re"waxed" some loose reeds with hot glue) and played it for about a year. Then I made the trip to the nearest big city to visit an accordion shop. I squeezed away with my pride-and-joy for the proprietor, who looked on with a bemused expression. "Wow" he said, "that thing is so leaky, I am surprised you can even play it." So began my accordion education, and I learned how very old accordions develop lots of leaks in lots of places (leathers, pallets, seals, etc) and usually need extensive restoration work. Not worth the cost if you have to pay someone else to do this. I decided to give it up and buy a more modern used instrument.

I am not trying to discourage you with my story, but that is the reality with these very old squeeze boxes. It may take much work if you want to restore it to good playability, but it will be a good learning experience and a labor of love if you are motivated.

I wish you success.
Steve

Old Soprani.jpg
 
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Posts by our member (Steve) Snavoyovsky make me think that instruments of this vintage possibly have hand-made reeds ?🤔
In any case, I find most refurbished ones I've heard on YouTube more than acceptable. 🙂
 
Iorio New York. A classic name which survived for many decades. You might want to take off the back panel and look at the collapse. I get these shipped to me sometimes to fix.
Chances are it needs to be taken apart. The pistons are not interchangeable so have plenty of space to lay them out in order, maybe on adhesive tape.
Sometimes the wooden brackets on the ends of the mechanism come unglued and have to be reset, but only in about 1 in 20 or so instances.
 
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