Reed marks and direction in block

[Clairejen]

I've embarked on a repair job with a small Weltmeister accordion I acquired cheaply. The wax is brittle and several reeds have fallen out, on investigation they should all be rewaxed. I've made my wax (20% rosin to 80% beeswax) and started removing the reeds. I've got a couple of questions as this is my first foray into repairs and I'd really appreciate any help I can get!

The reeds are punched with an O (though on some it is a U but I suspect that is poor punching). There seems to be no logic in whether the O is facing outwards or inwards in the block. Does this matter?

There seem to be various methods of applying the wax, going by videos I have watched. I've got it in an old chocolate melting pot which will keep it molten but not overly hot while I'm working. I have a tjanting, which is obviously designed for wax work, would that be a suitable implement to use? I've never seen anyone use a small glue gun but I imagine that could be an option if I formed glue sticks. Other than that I have soldering irons and paint brushes, both of which I've seen used. Whatever I choose, I will practise on some scrap wood and metal before attacking the accordion. Any recommendations or warnings?

 

[Dingo40]

I'm just an observer .
The simplest but very effective technique I've seen applied ( by a highly experienced accordion worker) involved using a rather flat waxing "spoon " with a flat, triangular blade, rather like the knives in our late 1960s Solingen cutlery set: the wax being applied by dipping the blade in a small pot of molten wax and dextrously transferred to where needed.
I've thought, if I ever need to do some waxing myself, I'll try to emulate this technique using one of our table knives!

 

[Clairejen]

I'm just an observer .
The simplest but very effective technique I've seen applied ( by a highly experienced accordion worker involved using a rather flat waxing "spoon " with a flat, triangular blade, rather like the knives in our late 1960s Solingen cutlery set: the wax being applied by dipping the blade in a small pot of molten wax and dextrously transferred to where needed.
I've thought, if I ever need to do some waxing myself, I'll try to emulate this technique using one of our table knives!

That sounds worth a try. I might try a variety of techniques on scrap wood and see what is easiest. There's a lot to wax!
Um, does your wife know your plans?

 

[Dingo40]

Very similar to this:

Another example:

italian factory worker waxing reeds in place in factory youtube - Google Search

 

[debra]

Very similar to this:

...

That's exactly what I am using. But for smaller repairs and corrections (when wax is already applied) I use a soldering iron as well.

 

[debra]

...

The reeds are punched with an O (though on some it is a U but I suspect that is poor punching). There seems to be no logic in whether the O is facing outwards or inwards in the block. Does this matter?

...

Reed plates (with reeds on them) are made without regard for the direction. They are identical on both sides. However, when a reed plate is installed on an accordion the pull versus push direction of the airflow may have a small influence on response and tuning, which is why a reed plate should always be put on in the same orientation. One side has a marking (O in this case) to indicate this is the outside, but during production nothing is really different between the marked and the unmarked side. The O is also a type indicator. Hohner also does this, with H or T for instance. Italians tend to use a diagonal stripe to mean "outside". And when there are different reed banks for the same type of reed (like for an MM or MMM register) they will also use two or three stripes so you don't mix up reeds belonging to different reed banks.

 

[Clairejen]

Reed plates (with reeds on them) are made without regard for the direction. They are identical on both sides. However, when a reed plate is installed on an accordion the pull versus push direction of the airflow may have a small influence on response and tuning, which is why a reed plate should always be put on in the same orientation. One side has a marking (O in this case) to indicate this is the outside, but during production nothing is really different between the marked and the unmarked side. The O is also a type indicator. Hohner also does this, with H or T for instance. Italians tend to use a diagonal stripe to mean "outside". And when there are different reed banks for the same type of reed (like for an MM or MMM register) they will also use two or three stripes so you don't mix up reeds belonging to different reed banks.

Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. I know there have been previous repairs to this instrument (one with pva!!!) so I'm not convinced that everything is correctly installed. There are no alternative voices on this one, it's only small.