Treble pads refreshing - suede with felt or just suede ?

[MilkoTV]

Greetings!
Wanted to share some experience from the whole exercise.
1. Disassembling the treble keys was easy. Used pliers to pull the metal rod out.
2. Removed all treble pads from their aluminum legs and cleaned the pads so-so and the legs - well.
3. Cut the old suede+leather using a blade from box cutter. Scraped the remaining suede with the blade perpendicular to the pad's surface
4. Used textile glue (see pictures) to apply generous amount on the pad itself, then stuck the pad on the new suede, leaving ~1 mil margin to the one next to it. Pressed and let dry overnight. Cut with a blade carefully in between the pads.
5. Cleaned the treble keys from the old grease (which has hardened). Lesson: no grease. Period.
6. Installed the treble keys right to left. The first 1/3 of the distance I was pushing the rod with hands (probably some kind of aluminum or copper-padded pliers would do a better job as the rod was slightly bending when pushed with hands. For the next 2/3 I used a small hammer, carefully centering each key and hammering gently. I might have bent some of the "ears" that the ping goes trough. The keys from last 1/5 (one-fifth) of the distance, I installed from left-to-right using a big sewing niddle. Then continued pushing the rod right-to-left, which was pushing the needle out and taking its space. Worked well.
7. Used wax+resin, and not hot glue. Highly recommend using wax+resin - it is very easy and straightforward.
8. Applied 2 coats of wax+resin glue in the grove where the aluminum leg goes over the small remaining of old wax+resing. Then using a soldering iron with adjustable temperature and on the lowest setting (~$30 on Anazom) and with flat end, I liquified the wax+resin, then pressed the aluminum leg, adjusting it, so the pad covers the holes completely and it is centered well.
9. After installing all pads, applied a few layers of wax+resin and tested. Worked fine from 1st time.
10. Additionally:
* Changed the gasket
* Polished the aluminum keys cover (see pictures) and installed new brass screws (not on the pictures)
* Applied wax+resin on all the corners of the compartments towards bass and treble keys as there were some leaks.
* Glued boosters on top of leather flaps that were showing more than 1mm
11. Result:
* Still some noise in the treble keys, due probably the bent "ears". Planning to use some long pliers left-to-right on the "ears" and see if this helps.
* Some of the reads need tuning. Don't have the courage yet to deal with that.
* Started learning a beautiful Bulgarian horo. Having fun

Thanks for your advices!
Thanks to accordionrevival.com as well!

 

[kimric]

I make my own felt/leather pad material for these old accordions. I am lucky in that there is a fabric store in Berkeley that has in addtion to the normal stock of fabric they have a nice selection of coat wool. the heavy brushed mohair is really nice and is 2-3 mm thick and some others are thinner. This is woven and is basically piano felt. Being able to handle it really helps get a idea of its softness and density.
I use this when I am rebuilding a vintage instrument that has no padding on the pallets other than a layer of leather, these instruments typically do not have any room under the grill so you can't get carried away. Even 2 mm of felt will quiet thigs down on the key action., and the thicker wool works nicely as under key bumpers.

Pipe organ parts supply houses have a good selection of specialty felt and leather and adhesives made for this purpose. book binding companies are good for supplies also.

 

[niels]

Then using a soldering iron with adjustable temperature and on the lowest setting (~$30 on Anazom) and with flat end, I liquified the wax+resin, then pressed the aluminum leg, adjusting it, so the pad covers the holes completely and it is centered well

Thanks for the tip MilkoTV I just ordered one of those.

 

[32251]

A layer of suede works for me. I work on a lot of basket case accordions trying to keep them playing and use repair techniques that work fine and are inexpensive. If I have an old unit with leaky hardened clattery pallet leather I use thin leather. In fact, I go to a discount tool place that sells 3 1/2’ sheets of chamois for $10. I look through the stock and get the thickest and that is enough to do 4 or 5 accordions. I don’t remove the keys unless the unit has individually removeable keys… just cut to size,apply a small amount of glue and use tweezers to slide in place. Now if you have a nice expensive accordion….yes use the best expensive stuff. In regards to the lube talked about…for corroded metal to metal parts, I use a spray lube with Teflon.