accordion keys hohner organola 2

[geky]

Geky is each key mounted on its own individual axle ?

no, there are 6-7 keys on a spindle, I don't know exactly. The keys can be removed individually, they have a fuse in the back that is removed and the key comes out.

 

[Ventura]

there seems to be 3 independant sections of
which he has removed one in the photo's

ok geky you have convinced me

 

[PhiliGol]

Yes you're right - it's split in several actions - 10 or so keys mounted on one of these plates with combs.
Here's a picture of the wide-spread Atlantic using same system:


As far as I recall there is one spindle per plate (not one per key).
Basically I found the system not too bad.
Replacing the white felt-rings and adjusting the 2 brass-plates helps a lot to side-stabilise the keys.
I reworked a few of 'em and all players were very happy, saying it feels like a new instrument.
Once the rectangular opening is worn out of course you're pretty much done - guess not too much you can do about other than following the (hard) way Geky did or the procedure I tried to describe earlier.

 

[geky]

Yes you're right - it's split in several actions - 10 or so keys mounted on one of these plates with combs.
Here's a picture of the wide-spread Atlantic using same system:


As far as I recall there is one spindle per plate (not one per key).
Basically I found the system not too bad.
Replacing the white felt-rings and adjusting the 2 brass-plates helps a lot to side-stabilise the keys.
I reworked a few of 'em and all players were very happy, saying it feels like a new instrument.
Once the rectangular opening is worn out of course you're pretty much done - guess not too much you can do about other than following the (hard) way Geky did or the procedure I tried to describe earlier.

thank you for your attention and involvement. yes, the system seems to be identical, with the organola. I wonder if the size of the keys is identical?, length width. a problem would be changing the rods, I think that the rods would come out only when heated, but the keys are plastic and can be deformed from the heat. complete keyboards, Italian system. waiting for an answer.

Yes you're right - it's split in several actions - 10 or so keys mounted on one of these plates with combs.
Here's a picture of the wide-spread Atlantic using same system:


As far as I recall there is one spindle per plate (not one per key).
Basically I found the system not too bad.
Replacing the white felt-rings and adjusting the 2 brass-plates helps a lot to side-stabilise the keys.
I reworked a few of 'em and all players were very happy, saying it feels like a new instrument.
Once the rectangular opening is worn out of course you're pretty much done - guess not too much you can do about other than following the (hard) way Geky did or the procedure I tried to describe earlier.

thank you for your attention and involvement. yes, the system seems to be identical, with the organola. I wonder if the size of the keys is identical?, length width. a problem would be changing the rods, I think that the rods would come out only when heated, but the keys are plastic and can be deformed from the heat. complete keyboards, Italian system. waiting for an answer.

Yes you're right - it's split in several actions - 10 or so keys mounted on one of these plates with combs.
Here's a picture of the wide-spread Atlantic using same system:


As far as I recall there is one spindle per plate (not one per key).
Basically I found the system not too bad.
Replacing the white felt-rings and adjusting the 2 brass-plates helps a lot to side-stabilise the keys.
I reworked a few of 'em and all players were very happy, saying it feels like a new instrument.
Once the rectangular opening is worn out of course you're pretty much done - guess not too much you can do about other than following the (hard) way Geky did or the procedure I tried to describe earlier.

thank you for your attention and involvement. yes, the system seems to be identical, I wonder if the keys have the same size, length, width? a problem would be changing the rods, I think the rods would come out only when heated, but the keys are plastic and can be deformed. Today I sent an email to an accordion repair shop in Castelfidardo Italy and asked how much it would cost to assemble a complete Italian keyboard. I am waiting for an answer from them.

 

[colinm]

So are you still certain the you cannot buy larger diameter rod material, cut it to length with a hacksaw and carefully drill the keys out to be a good fit on the new rod, even if it means honing them with a smaller drill wrapped in abrasive paper

 

[geky]

So are you still certain the you cannot buy larger diameter rod material, cut it to length with a hacksaw and carefully drill the keys out to be a good fit on the new rod, even if it means honing them with a smaller drill wrapped in abrasive paper

I don't understand exactly what you want to say, the translation is not correct. if I take other keys identical to mine, the rods certainly do not match, the rods are modeled, different shapes, lengths depending on the model of the accordion. let me model a rod again with another form seems impossible to me, plus my accordion has a cassotto, the vertical rods must be drilled and the horizontal rods riveted, which enter the cassotto, this requires precision and great effort. I consider the best option to put my rods on the new keys, a the simpler and safer option is to sendin Italy to install the complete Italian keyboard the accordion to a workshop specialized in accordion repairs, it costs more but it would certainly be of better quality than if I repaired it myself.

 

[PhiliGol]

When Colin talked "rod" he speaks about the axle-"rod".
When you talk rod you mean the levers (aka clavis-levers).
Since your keys are worn out thinking about a new axle fitting the enlarged key-opening might be another way.
It involves precise drilling of the brass plates as well.

 

[geky]

When Colin talked "rod" he speaks about the axle-"rod".
When you talk rod you mean the levers (aka clavis-levers).
Since your keys are worn out thinking about a new axle fitting the enlarged key-opening might be another way.
It involves precise drilling of the brass plates as well.

I understand very hard because the terms, the language in the field of the accordion, are not translated correctly. The stem is the one that leaves the key and covers with the felt cover, the sole, the valve, the holes where the air enters and exits. maybe you can refer to it to change the axis on which the keys are placed, with a thicker one to compensate for the wear of the key holes? or to standardize the holes of the keys to the size of the new, thicker shaft. It would be a solution, but it would also mean to enlarge, modify the holes, the comb, the fingerboard, the ears where the shaft and the keys enter, I don't know exactly the correct terms. some keys are broken where the fuse that holds the key fixed to the spindle goes in, I wouldn't solve the problem. the keys are too worn, I thought about different wettability, that's what came to my mind to replace the piece of plastic with the used hole, with a piece of wood , it was better, durable, textolite but it is much more difficult to work and model.

 

[RowanSumner]

H

Yes you're right - it's split in several actions - 10 or so keys mounted on one of these plates with combs.
Here's a picture of the wide-spread Atlantic using same system:


As far as I recall there is one spindle per plate (not one per key).
Basically I found the system not too bad.
Replacing the white felt-rings and adjusting the 2 brass-plates helps a lot to side-stabilise the keys.
I reworked a few of 'em and all players were very happy, saying it feels like a new instrument.
Once the rectangular opening is worn out of course you're pretty much done - guess not too much you can do about other than following the (hard) way Geky did or the procedure I tried to describe earlier.

I am currently trying to get quotes for similar work to an organola ivp (yes I know they're rubbish but some of us are skint), mine is in good condition otherwise and just has excessive key travel on some of the keyboard. It's obviously been really well maintained and looked after other than this wear, which from your pictures I assume is the white felt.

I'm put of doing this myself only because I am unsure about removing the register switch unit. Is that a relatively straightforward job? Any images of that would be really helpful for me