Hohner Morino IVM

[debra]

The instrument sounds good. (Someone said it wasn't as mellow as expected, but it's a Morino IV M and not an N or S. The sound is normal for an M.)
It also looks good. The bellows tape actually does not look replaced to me but if it is that's even better as it does wear out and shows only minor signs of wear. So if the deal is legit it is a good deal. If it isn't, make sure you have good buyer protection. Personally I would only pay upon delivery and verification of the goods.

 

[Soulsaver]

Well we could argue, but it wouldn't put me off.. I'd buy it for the price in a flash.. COD.

 

[Morne]

Paul, Ed and Jim: Meet the family.



Now I just need to learn how to play accordion properly!

 

[TomBR]

That's great Morne, very pleased that the transaction worked out well. Hope you'll have a great time playing it.
Tom

 

[truthinbeer]

Well done Morne.

 

[debra]

Congratulations with your new "baby". I'm sure you will love it!

 

[barkis]

Good that it worked out well for you :tup:

What are those extra buttons on the bass for? The buttons of the bass usually sit in a slanted fashion, like on the red accordion, but here they sit like a square.

 

[debra]

The "extra" buttons on the bass side are typical for Hohner Morino's. You normally never go all the way up or down so it doesn't matter that there are some chord buttons missing the base not (bottom side) or vice versa (top side).

 

[Soulsaver]

Hey brilliant..congratulations :mrgreen: so glad it was kosher, what a bargain - so it's not always too good to be true!

 

[Morne]

I only had about an hour to play with it today, so heres some information. Note: Nothing of this is to refute the sellers claims as to this instrument being in great condition. The instrument is in very good condition, these things are just the effects of age.

Ill list the worst things first:

• All the treble side notes sound properly on push and pull. Only the highest A note using the high reed has a problem sounding easily.
• The bass side has some notes that most likely need re-valving. The G note on the 2-3 register (bass piano register?) sounds fine on pull, but horrible on push:
  
• That G note is the worst one. There are only a couple others that sound like they might need attention too, but none of them sound nearly as bad as that G.
• The bass side feels like it moves quicker when buttons are depressed compared to my other accordion. Im not sure if this is because Im used to the tighter bellows on my other accordion or if something is going on here.
• Overall, the treble is probably 90-95% perfect as far as I am concerned (maybe a perfectionist will differ).
• Overall, the bass side needs a little prodding because that G note is essentially busted, but its still in a very good condition.

There are some cosmetic things, but I will not worry about fixing them right now:

• The metal plate behind the keyboard has two cracks in two corners.I assume this just holds the cassotto, but doesnt actually influence the sound. Is this a problem?
• The bass strap has seen better days. What would I be looking at for possible replacement?
• Most of the silver strips on the grille have lost their colour. Can I do something with them or would they be replaced with something else?
• The bellows frame doesnt seem to fit flush. I do not know if this is how they were made or if this is a new bellows unit.

Some general comments:

• It doesnt use bellows straps. It has a knob you turn on the grille to (un)lock the bellows. This is a nice touch.
• The bass side Master (1234) and Tenor (34) registers plays the exact same reeds for the chords. The single bass reeds do change between those registers. The bass piano (23) register plays different reeds for the chords. Is this the normal behaviour or is there something wrong? I assume its normal because maybe on the high register the chords would sound too thin with only 2 high reeds?

Comparisons with my Mengozzi (the red one in the photo above):

• Mengozzi: 18mm key width, around 4-5mm key travel
• Morino: 20mm key width, around 7mm key travel
• The mother of pearl (??? it feels like some kind of stone) bass buttons on the Morino are coarser than the plastic ones on the Mengozzi. My fingers seem to be catching on the Morino one more.
• I have to get used to the Morino keys/siza/weight. I am fumbling with things I can play okay on the Mengozzi. I just need more time.
• Mengozzi bass (5 voice) is somewhat louder. I assume the Morino is mellower to fit in with the mellower treble. Or is there something wrong with it? Sometimes the Mengozzis master bass is too loud, so Im not necessarily saying that the Morino is soft.
• I like the cassotto sound. A quick messing around with LMH somewhat satisfies my organ craving!
• The Mengozzis cassotto-less MM is more powerful when I want that wetter/sharper kind of tremolo.

Some questions:

• How do I open it to look inside? I can see two levers and I remember there were some other accordions discussed on the forum that used something similar. Can somebody explain the steps to me before I break something?
• There was a thread some time ago about how to store a cassotto accordion. Should I store mine in the case in the playing postition too? Im used to just leaving my Mengozzi on its feet outside the case.

 

[Morne]

Here are some photos for the previous post.

The cracks in the plate behind the keyboard:


The bellows corners (the two front corners on both sides look like this):


The bass strap layers has come apart:


The darkened grille trim:


The levers on the treble side:

 

[debra]

About your comments:
- The high A not sounding easily means the reed opening needs to be adjusted. (2 minute job)
- Revalving after many years is not surprising. It is possible that valves can be bent back but new valves are better.
- The G has a minor problem with the reed position (reed not moving up and down undisturbed in the opening in the reed plate. (2 minute job)
- Bass side may use more reeds than your other accordion. But an old Morino will indeed use a bit more air.
- The metal plate behind the keyboard may give access to the underside of the keyboard. It has nothing to do with the cassotto. Not a problem.
- Use some silver polish on the strips on the grille.
- The bellows is the one thing that requires a real repairman. It needs to fit flush and the rubber seal may need to be replaced.
- The knob to (un)lock the bellows is a standard feature on the Morino M series.
- The bass side register switches may need to be checked out.
- Store the instrument in the playing position to avoid sagging of the valves in the cassotto.
- I to believe that under the cover on the keyboard side are clips to open the accordion but I'm not entirely sure.

 

[Soulsaver]

Assuming they've used the same method as later models, those levers pointing towards each other should be turned to point in the opposite direction. Then hold the bellows corners at the front and push the treble section up with your thumbs and it should split from the wood of the bellows. It latches at the back.. but once you get it split you'll see the method behind it. Those levers locate under lugs on the body under the grill and pull the treble section down onto the bellows gasket.

 

[Morne]

Some treble pictures.



These spines are completely messed up:


Theres some ventilli sagging. I thought ventilli was supposed to stay flat for longer. So if this has happened, are these valves really old or is this because it has most likely been stored on its feet?


The wax looks bad here and there, but it doesnt look like its so brittle as to just disintegrate.


The back of the pickup reads:
Hohner Accordeon
Mikrofon
Typ AK 36
Made In Germany

 

[Morne]

Some bass pictures.


A close-up of the leather valves with plastic over it:


The only things I could see that might release the reed banks - some screws and a lever:


The bass rods:

 

[Morne]

Some other pictures.

The treble side of the bellows:


Bass side of the bellows:


Two things that came loose:

 

[Morne]

Some comments:

• Given the visible condition of the treble valves I think it sounds pretty good. The bass side needs a more work.
• The bellows latch was damaged in the past because the metal part fixed to the cassotto block is bent and there is visible damage to the reed block above. I could find no debris. The bellows closes properly, though. Theres just a 5mm wiggle on the bellows when the latch is closed.
• I dont think this is the original bellows unit. The actual bellows frame doesnt have the same shape as the body at the corners. The frame is a little wider at the corners, but the gasket strip does cover the actual body. The bass side has some hard white stuff in the corner above the Morino name.
• One of the white anti-moisture things fell off and a piece of the wood near the rods fell off. Both of those things were only glued on.

Questions:

• How to remove the reed blocks? I assume those metal things are to be pulled, but what else? Should I be careful of something?
• How to remove the bass side from the bellows? I read on accordionrevival.com that it might happen by undoing things from the bass rod cavity side and then removing the bellows. But with that white stuff I think they might have glued it stuck. I havent tried yet.
• Is that some kind of pseudo-cassotto in the bass or is this just an old design? I assume it would block some of the sound from going out the front.
• If I am going to have some reeds re-valved, I figured I might as well do all of them. Would this be the way to go? Im willing to spend a little extra here since I believe its worth it on this accordion.

I love this treble sound, but the master bass sounds a little soft. It is LM, then LMH, then LMMH, then master bass. (Sorry again, I cannot play it well):

 

[debra]

- The treble valves as well as the bass side seem to be in good condition. It requires only minor work. Note that the valves that remain open for 1mm or so are not a problem. It's caused by prolonged exposure to gravity (combined with age). It looks like only a few valves should be replaced. It would be silly to do all of them.
- It looks like the bellows is not original. it does not have the same curvature as the body of the accordion. It's not a problem per se other than cosmetic. What does need replacing is the sealing. It looks like fabric and should be replaced by newer more rubbery sealing.
- The anti-moisture things should be replaced. They will have absorbed everything they can and it's best to put in new silica gel (balls).
- The pickup is useless. Maybe you should simply remove it. You cannot pick up a good accordion sound using such a pickup on the inside of the accordion.
- With some fiddling and the metal clamps you should be able to remove the reed blocks. Every accordion model is different in this respect.
- The bass cassotto is really a nice touch, found also in the later Morino N series (and sadly gone in the Morino S series). It's not a "real" cassotto in the sense that it is not a whole chamber. Rather it is an elongated (and angled) wooden pipe per note that the sound has to go through, making the tone more mellow. It really improves the bass sound.

Regarding the sound balance: the Morino M series is constructed in such a way that the sound from the cassotto can leave the instrument "unobstructed". This explains the difference in sound with the later Morino M and S series. While you are playing you will get the impression that the keyboard side is too loud compared to the bass side. But you should get the opinion from the audience as you will hear the keyboard side more than the bass side while you are playing.

Based on what you show and what you paid for this accordion you are making me very jealous! (No, kidding, I wish you all the best with this accordion and I am mostly sad that as far as I can tell there exists no button version of the Morino IV M. If there were and one came on sale I would not hesitate for one minute to hit the "buy" button.)

 

[debra]

I searched for MORINO IVM (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...0.XMORINO+IVM.TRS0&_nkw=MORINO+IVM&_sacat=619 ) and there are two listings: a white one from Canada with an asking price of $2925 and a black one from Germany with an asking price of $3093.86.
So yours may require a little work, but you can now see what an incredible deal you got!
There are more listings, all a lot more expensive than what you paid...

 

[Morne]

I have bad news. The reason for the bad bass sounds and losing air on some notes is because some wax has disappeared and the reed block is cracked.

Im guessing these are exactly the reeds that bother me. The bottom of the reeds have gaps. I have shined a light over it and I can see the air hole beneath it.
<ATTACHMENT filename=Missing wax.jpg index=2>

To the left you can see the block is cracked. When I press down on the reed block it moves a tiny bit down.
<ATTACHMENT filename=Cracked reed block.jpg index=1>

Is this fatal?

The treble sound is wonderful, besides for some valves and spines that need to be replaced. So it would be quite a pity if that bass reed block meant this accordions death.

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Furthermore, can somebody help me figure out how to get the reed blocks out? I have pulled the metal rod thing at the top of the treble reed blocks and then I can slide the reed block out. However, this is the old kind of block where the register slide is inside the block.
From http://accordionrevival.com/ACCORDION_REPAIR1.php :

If you are removing reed blocks, be very careful not to bend the register slides. In many older accordions, the slides are mounted in the reed block rather than in the foundation plate. If this is the case, lifting the reed block without first disengaging the slide from the switch mechanism can cause the slide to kink, rendering it useless. Once bent, they are very difficult to straighten well enough to work properly.

Does disengaging the slide from the switch mechanism here mean I should select a register that disables the reed block I want to remove, or does this mean I must somehow physically disconnect the rods from the slide inside the block?

I tried to remove one of the reed blocks and it looked like the register slide was going to slide out of the reed block if I remove it, so I put it back gently.

On the base side I am totally lost. The way the screws are on that little holding plate to the left inside the bass makes me believe that the bellows should be removed before working on the bass reed blocks. Or alternatively, that the entire bass structure must first be removed.

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I have no idea how to remove the bellows from the bass side.
I think I read on accordionrevival.com something like you need to do something form the bass rod side to remove the bellows, but I really cannot see anything.

These are the corners inside from the bass rod side.
<ATTACHMENT filename=Bass side screws.jpg index=0>

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Regarding previous comments:
Yes, the bellows gasket is fabric.
I have removed the pickup. I just cut the wired under the socket. I dont really care about pickups at this time, so its no big deal.
The bass balance problem will then be because of the bad notes.

I really hope I can get that bass problem fixed. Now that I think about it, this is the second cassotto accordion I have seen available locally in years. The other one is a Weltmeister Consona. I think the preferred sound locally is the sharper kind. Those with cassotto accordions will be top level professionals - and there are very few of them. And besides, they have more modern instruments and they are not selling.

I have not yet had a chance to contact a repairman and I would like get the reed blocks out for photos first.
I am actually a little scared to just try pulling on things because this somewhat more complex than my other accordion.

If I need to take any close-up pictures to help, let me know.