Register “Feel” on Cassotto Accordions

[Scuromondo]

Is it typical on a cassotto accordion for the register selection switches to provide different tactile feedback when switching between registers in the chamber vs those not in the chamber?

I have (after a nearly yearlong search) chosen a new accordion—my first-ever new accordion, and my first cassotto instrument as well! I am quite enjoying my squeezing these days! But I have noticed that when a non-cassotto register is selected, if I move between other non-cassotto registers, the finger pressure required is not significantly different than any other accordion I have tried in the past; and likewise when switching between cassotto register settings. However, if I switch from a non-cassotto to a cassotto register, the register button press required is deeper and with a much more noticeable detent. I don’t necessarily mind it, but it is taking a bit of getting used to. I have no experience with other cassotto accordions. Is this typical?

—Paul

 

[Dingo40]

Can't say that I've noticed ?

 

[debra]

There should be no difference. The force needed to press a register should always simply be a function of how many slides need to shift. so when you shift from H to LMM 4 slides have to move, whereas shifting from L to M moves only 2 slides and should require the same force as shifting from M+ to H for instance.

 

[nagant27]

I’ve also not felt a difference on the tone chamber registers. I’ve played a few and it should feel The same, especially on a new accordion. On older ones there could be more friction on the slides maybe, but this isn’t only in the chamber.

 

[Scuromondo]

I did a bit of troubleshooting. By removing the grill cover it became obvious that one of the four sliders controlled by the register switches was being obstructed. The other three were operating normally and moving freely, but thus one was stuck.

Since it is a new accordion I really did not want to pull pins and open it up, but I also did not want to send it back to Italy. So after minutes of ambivalence, I decided to go ahead and give it a go. I (slowly and carefully) opened up the treble side and discovered that one of the reed blocks (the sharp middle set) was slightly—very slightly, hardly even perceptibly—shifted. I’m guessing that, in transit, it had perhaps experienced a mechanical shock that caused this reed block to move just a millimeter. The position that it was in caused it to make contact with the lever arm from the register slider and prevent it from moving through its full range of travel. The tolerances in that area are very tight! ...In any case, after loosening the block, placing it correctly, and then refastening it, the problem is fixed! The switches now all work perfectly. I am sure that, to you gents experienced in the field of accordion repair, this is not particularly impressive, but I’m positively tickled about it. It was much simpler than I expected and I am a happy guy once again!

 

[Dingo40]

That's great!: "Happy days are here again...."???

 

[debra]

Good news that you managed to fix it.
When you order an accordion directly from a factory or another source far away you should only do so if you can do minor repairs yourself. For people who need service through a shop or repairer for every little thing my advice is: buy through a shop or directly from a reputable repairer.

 

[Scuromondo]

Good news that you managed to fix it.
When you order an accordion directly from a factory or another source far away you should only do so if you can do minor repairs yourself. For people who need service through a shop or repairer for every little thing my advice is: buy through a shop or directly from a reputable repairer.

Fortunately for me, several years ago I developed a nagging curiosity to learn a bit about the mechanics and construction of accordions, so I took a weekend-long instruction from Mr. Dale Wise (a fairly well known accordion personality in Virginia about two hours drive from me). Part of Mr. Wise’s instruction touched on some very basic maintenance and repairs that a person should be able to do without consulting an expert. I think that, just this brief exposure to accordion architecture—including opening it up and identifying the location and function of major components—gave me enough confidence to slowly proceed with some careful troubleshooting. I frankly never thought I would apply this aspect of what he taught, but now in retrospect it has turned out to be quite worthwhile.

 

[godgi]

i had a simirar type of issue and it turned out to be an internal treble reed block too tightly screwed down. this can also cause tightnedd or pressure on the coupler sliders which go via levers through the chassis.
just another idea to consider .
godgi