Is it possible to tune cassotto reeds while they are in the accordion?
Cassotto tuning
- Thread starter colinm
- Start date
Accordion repairers are not surgeons. We do not have tools to do non-invasive surgery on accordions. Typically an accordion has two reed blocks in cassotto, and the first row of reeds (viewed when the treble side is removed from the bellows) can to some extent be reached and thus tuned without taking the reed block out. Whether this is possible depends on whether or not the edge of the treble side sticks out too far "above" the level of these reeds (thus forcing an uncomfortable angle for files or scratchers to work on the reeds. Bor the other three sets of reeds deeper in the cassotto it is really impossible to tune these reeds without removing the reed blocks. We do not have the tools with lights, camera, weird angles to reach in there and do any work.
Ventura
Been here for ages!
hmmmm...
it is possible on a Roland
virtually
and possibly necessary now that they incorporated that
algorithm to make the reeds randomly "age" the more hours
you put in playing an 8x
"supernatural" doncha know
it is possible on a Roland
virtually
and possibly necessary now that they incorporated that
algorithm to make the reeds randomly "age" the more hours
you put in playing an 8x
"supernatural" doncha know
Caps
Active member
There is an algorithm to make the non-reeds age? I didn't know that. Is this something on the FR-4X as well?
Where in the world do you get all this information? i am constantly amazed by the stuff you know.
Where in the world do you get all this information? i am constantly amazed by the stuff you know.
Stop living in the previous century.
A swarm of AI-enabled tuner microbots will sort out your tuning needs, cassotto or not.
Does anyone have a few spare $m to invest in my startup*?
*Your capital is at risk.
A swarm of AI-enabled tuner microbots will sort out your tuning needs, cassotto or not.
Does anyone have a few spare $m to invest in my startup*?
*Your capital is at risk.
Perhaps we should get together.
I bought myself a fibre optic flexible light source which connects to my mobile phone and a mini flexible drilling kit.
I am sure it will be a piece of cake, or have I wasted another £1000.
It is so sad and true that indeed it is funny!Who wants to get an accordion tuned anyway?
Most folks don't bother.
Folks not only don't bother, they don't even notice that their instrument is horribly out of tune. The process of an accordion going out of tune is so gradual over the years that people just thing their instrument is "normal" and doesn't need any work done to it.
Suppose that is an advantage of Scottish musetteWho wants to get an accordion tuned anyway?
Most folks don't bother.
Not like there’s a competent tuner on every other street corner either. I had one put in the wrong reed in my Pan. The one I could trust died. At least I know where the sour reed is in my Piatanesi. I suppose I could drive to Milwaukee or Chicago but that’s a whole new kettle of fish. And so on ad infinitum.Who wants to get an accordion tuned anyway?
Most folks don't bother.
Ventura
Been here for ages!
well we know you are a competent repair guy and know your
way around accordions, but yeah tuning and reed problems are
harder to get good at
may i suggest to you keeping an eye open at the Flea markets etc.
for one of those old reed organs like EMENEE made in plastic or
the many brand names on those skinny leg ones that came out of
Italy. they use reeds and a blower system. there are plenty still around
for cheap
it is really not that difficult to re-engineer one to act as a tuning
platform (powered bellows so to say) you just have to re-channel
the airstream so it pulls air through one hole and pushes it out the
other on a new top-plate you cut and fit over the blower junk
mine has 2 holes on each side of a center divider so i can actually
tune pairs of reeds for musette as well as individual. i also have
an assortment of wood reed-holders of various sizes for
loose reeds. An air flow bleeder helps so the air pressure is just right
i plug the unused holes with silicon plugs i saved from dried-out caulk tips
you can slide a reedblock across either hole and this makes it so
much easier to figure out problems when you can see the reed working
and mess with it incrementally close up
just sayin' b'cuz i really didn't get to where i could do decent
with reeds until i built this one.. the idea is sort of like using
a Provino type platform as your reed workbench
Thanks for this great advice Ventura. For me, it’s a question of time and motivation. I determined that I don’t aspire to be both a competent player and repairman. It’s enough for my poor old brain to play 3 hours of new(ish) music this year starting in May. I better get on it……
jollyrogeraccordions
Active member
The 'bottom line' with cassotto tuning is that the block has to come out for all but the reeds you can see facing you. However, it depends on being able to isolate the reeds (with a coupler..or ..more time consuming…by blocking off one set with tape) to get readings while the block is in situ. If you can isolate the reeds…and If you are spot tuning or, say, replacing or fixing a bad reed, you make a set of readings with the block in place. Then do your tuning on a tuning table (i have a pedal operated one) and this works for most reeds. You might need to repeat for the reeds you have 'touched'. The point is…you tune to the offset. So if a reed is 7 cents sharp that's the adjustment you make. But *always* note the initial tuning table reading because you'll forget. Another approach (for replacing reeds) is to note adjacent reeds that are in tune, then tune the new reed to whatever offset the 'good' reed shows on the table. So if the good reed is 5 cents sharp on the tuning table, that's the reference offset, and when you put the block back, your tuned reed (almost always) reeds correctly to the target pitch.
For other tuning, as much as possible tune 'in the box', though the above approach works quite well for replacing reeds, and I often don't need to do any more adjustments when I check the reeds 'in the box'. I do have Dirks Tuner so I can record a whole set of reeds and work from the output. Otherwise it's pen and paper. Obvs the valves, wax, dirty/corroded reeds need to be fixed *before* any tuning.
For other tuning, as much as possible tune 'in the box', though the above approach works quite well for replacing reeds, and I often don't need to do any more adjustments when I check the reeds 'in the box'. I do have Dirks Tuner so I can record a whole set of reeds and work from the output. Otherwise it's pen and paper. Obvs the valves, wax, dirty/corroded reeds need to be fixed *before* any tuning.
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