Dingo40
Been here for ages!
One of my vintage PAs (LMMM) has a kind of overall comb and paper buzzing effect across the entire range, which I quite like.
Not sure whether I understand this correctly. I can follow your reasoning if you have opened up the accordion and then look inside from where the reeds all are. The block deepest inside then actually is the block closest to the exit. It is for the black keys (plus a few white) and the block you can remove directly is for the white keys (minus a few). If you were to remove the grille and then look inside you are actually looking inside the cassotto. The black keys have short levers/arms, going to the block closest to where the sound comes out. The M reeds are always first, the L reeds sit behind that. After that comes the second block, again with the M reeds first and the L reeds all the way in the back.I bought a Vignoni LMMH in Castlefiardo 3 years ago, with LM in Cassotto. The deepest reed block in the cassotto has M black keys (plus 3 'E's) facing down, and L black keys (plus 3 "e"s) facing up. The next block, closest to exit has M white keys (minus 3 'E's) facing down, and L white keys (minus 3 "e"s) facing up. All black keys, and 'E's sound reedy, while the white keys sound more mellow, clear and maybe stronger.
Another thing I noticed, which I don't like, is when playing certain cords or notes together in Bassoon, there is an unpleasant tremolo/vibrato, even though the tuning is fine, I checked One tuner told me that sound of "bees buzzing" happens sometimes with certain cassottos. Any comment?
Why would he need a support stand? It's only a 5-voice instrument.
The [LM]MMM is intriguing. Was the purpose of this to provide full unbridled musette for popular (at the time) tunes and dry jazz sound in one accordion? Or just to add some extra weight to make the player's life more difficult?
Update: I thought he played a "Jazzmaster", but I now read that it was a "Chromaton V" Was it even an [LM]MMM then? Looking at the register switches it was a [L]MMMH with unknown voice in cassotto. Was it just a button version of "Piano V"?
If anyone has any knowledge on accordiola model ranges I would be grateful for the info.
I kind of gathered that "Piano V" was the piano version of "Chromaton V" with [LH]MMM and "Swingmaster" was the piano version of "Jazzmaster" with [LM]MMM. I might be wrong. Presumably, "Grand luxe" or "De luxe" indicated reed quality a mano vs tipo a mano? It looks like there were other models with similar configurations too though. Cassotto? Cassotto II?
I believe his family runs an accordion repair shop. They also have a street organ that is in a video somewhere.Wow. A room full of accordions and steel bikes. Plus some power tools? If there's heaven, it must look like this.
He seems to have quite a collection of boxes, but videos are either of the Chromaton or the Morino with a lot of buttons on left hand side.
That is because around C6 reeds stop having valves. That causes them to sound sharper and also a bit less loud. The cassotto still mellows down the sound a bit compared to the same note outside of cassotto, but there is definitely an audible change in sound where the valves stop.@debra
You were absolutely right (no surprise there) about high frequencies and cassotto.
It looks like the cassotto effect "switches off" on note C6 in my box. Anything lower has that rich, silky smooth rounded sound, while C6 and higher simply sounds a little less gritty than the one outside cassotto, as if a sordina was closed. Very interesting.
The non-valved reeds do not have a valve because it helps them start. The air that is spilled through the non-playing reed tongue helps the playing one to start. It isn't clear where exactly the valves should stop. Many accordions nowadays still have valves on C6 and C6#. This is especially useful for large piano accordions and for button accordions that have the notes go up to C#. The L reeds then go up to C6#.@debra
Thanks.
My first non-valved note is, indeed, C6.
However, I have stuck a valve on a random non-valved plate (just the outside valve) and played through the chromatic scale. I managed to correctly identify the newly valved reed, but the difference was barely noticeable. So I suspect the noticeable cassotto "switching off" effect has mote to do with something else (wavelength for given pitch maybe).
I preferred the valved tone to a non-valved tone in cassotto - should I valve the cassotto reeds from C6 onwards? Or is there a good reason why these are not valved and it should never be done?
That's very interesting! It's especially interesting because many accordion makers tend to make the resonance chamber for high-pitched notes smaller by inserting an extra piece of wood. I never understood why they did that (because it makes it harder to support a reed from the inside while tuning. But what you found out is that instead of making these cavities smaller for high-pitched notes they should actually be larger!@debra
I've been doing a bit of experimenting with reed blocks and valves.
There were ideas floated on a German-speaking accordion forum that reed block chambers are being made way too small. The hypothesis is easily proven by making an adjustable volume chamber jig, plugging in reeds and listening while adjusting volume.
There's certainly a very noticeable effect when enlarging chambers for C6 onwards. For example, for piccolo range (C7-C8) if instead of the traditional <1cm3 you give these reeds 4-6 cm3 breathing space, there is a very significant increase in volume and response when you find the "optimal" volume for each note. Even if the reed height is not set very well!
...
I bet James Cottingham would be interested.There's no reason why a smart guy with a powerful computer can't design the perfect reed block, where the volume and response is even and maximised. Unfortunately, no powerful computer in my workshop, and no smart guy either .
When I was a boy, the accepted abbreviation for "cubic centimetres" was "cc", but change is all pervasive....when enlarging chambers for C6 onwards. For example, for piccolo range (C7-C8) if instead of the traditional <1cm3 you give these reeds 4-6 cm3 breathing space...
It's only "cc" when you're talking motorbike engines
I can compare awful post-WWII machine-stamped Kebrdl reeds (with gaps the size of Grand Canyon) with tipo-a-mano Italian made reeds. With the optimal chamber size, the Kebrdle sounds much louder than tipo-a-mano in a small chamber. Stick it into a wrong chamber, and it dies. So reed quality is irrelevant in this particular test.About the volume also depends on the quality of the voices