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Scandalli wreck - or treasure?

KiwiSqueezer

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Hi folks,

This sad-looking box looks as though it's been pulled out of a skip. Should it be saved? Clearly, the amount of work likely to be needed on such a complex box is enormous, but it's almost free. If viewed as a project (so no labour charges to consider), and if it hasn't been gutted for parts, etc., etc., might one end up with a rather special instrument, or was it originally just a ho-hum lump of impressive-looking complexity?
 

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these are what i affectionately call the "Hubcap" Scandalli's..
sadly you have only one hubcap still intact, and unlikely
you will find 5 others to put back on

they are non chambered, and were the top of the line in their day

they are extremely powerful and boast an incredible dynamic range

there are some of us who would rather find one of these in amazing condition
than a Super Vl
 
Technically these were called Scandalli Brevettes. I own a more recent version:

Screenshot 2023-07-27 at 8.54.59 AM.png

Screenshot 2023-07-27 at 8.55.18 AM.png

I cannot speak to the exact model that you are displaying but this is a strong mid-range accordion. 4/5 reed setup, nice sound, dry tuned and a true workhorse... but by no means anything close to a Super VI.

I played this one when I was a pre-teen and in to my accordion journey.
Screenshot 2023-07-27 at 8.58.38 AM.png

Screenshot 2023-07-27 at 8.59.16 AM.png

I just turned 63 yesterday and this accordion was returned to me recently (a few months ago as I type this post), and now sits on my shelf today (bottom right). :)
Screenshot 2023-07-27 at 9.02.57 AM.png

The important question... and this is again, MY opinion. :).
No, there is nothing super-extraordinary about this accordion. It is not a treasure amongst accordions (it's not like you have a Gola or a Dallape Super Maestro), BUT it is an accordion worthy of being saved and enjoyed. More so if you have the skills to do it yourself and do it right.

Heads up, I believe that you will be investing more money in to it than it is worth on the market, depending on how severe the inner vitals of this accordion are. :)
 
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As Ike would say, every accordion is special! The value in a restoration project is often more in the enjoyment you get from the restoration than in the value of the finished work, both financially and sonically. Grab it and have some fun, I say! If this kind of thing interests you, of course.....
 
the older hubcap models, distinguished by the shifts, and even earlier ones
had round typewriter sort of shift l;evers, are different than the later
modern looking ones which by then had tone chamber models competing
for the top of the line. I feel the early ones were the best of breed at their point
in time and that means fit, finish, reeds, hidden quality and time spend on build.
 
., might one end up with a rather special instrument...
Here in OZ, they were colloquially known as the "billy lids". *🙂
A friend bought one ( in good working condition and no missing " lids") in the late 1980s from a neighbour of his.
It was quite solid and weighty but had a very nice tone and plenty of volume.
At the time, he spent $A400-00 to have it thoroughly refurbished.
I liked it.🙂
In general, though, it's hard to overlook the shoddy plating job these "lids" and other shiny bits accordions display.
Often, one of the first things to deteriorate on accordions, in general, is the brightware which loses its plating and becomes all pltted and rusty 🫤
*https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...HhgKwgIIEAAYFhgeGA8&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp
 
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Here's a similar one for sale in Oz:🙂
 
KS
BTW, is this the model with the claw hook bellows lock?
If so, check out the condition of the bellows at the locking point: this mechanism has a habit of chewing up the inside of the bellows folds near the locking point. 🫤

Also, I seem to remember that our member Ffingers purchased one of these (in much worse condition than this one): perhaps he would share some of his impressions?🤔🙂
 
Mine is so old that it has the 'typewriter keys' for couplers and 'waterfall' piano keys.

The 'bin lids' are in a poor state too.

IMG_0057 copy.JPGScandelli Bellows Lock 04 copy.jpg


The damage done by careless use of the internal bellows lock is considerable.

No chance that I wiil be trying to resurrect this one - I'll just use it to learn some repair skills - eventually.
 
Here's another example of the general line:
One more:
 
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Just to show the billy-lid mutes were not restricted to only the Scandalli make. 🙂
 
Here's another in action !
Judging by the YouTube clips, they are a favourite instrument in the Balkans 🙂
 
Scandalli was one of the few companies that were permitted to
ship product behind the Iron Curtain and into Eastern Europe

this was, of course, tightly controlled by "the state" and
specific and individual case permission was required for
anyone to be allowed to own or purchase one

so it is not suprising that they were "popular" in the Balkans
both by default and by quality

ZeroSette and by extension Giulietti branded accordions
also became quite well positioned in this region

the vagaries of post-war europe and it's effect on accordion
availability and manufacturing had pretty wild mood-swings
and the quality of their home-grown accordions also varied
widely.. i recall trying some new Delicias that made their way to
Western Europe shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall in the
flood of products the Eastern European countries shipped out
in the rather frantic attempt to get a piece of the free-Market

those Delicia's were no better than the Chinese models
of recent years

by contrast, the Tula werks have been turning out
amazing little boxes since Sputnik and before and
may till be doing so today
 
Thanks everyone for the encouraging comments, which, however just added to my frustration: the sad-looking Scandalli was just out of reach, too far away for collection to be practicable, and the seller didn't seem to want to pack and freight it. It sat, folorn and unlovely, apparently unwanted, even at NZ$40 (approx 20 quid), for over a week on the 'net, and then the listing disappeared - it was gone, perhaps to the dump. I grieved: so close, and yet so far. I hoped that the world hadn't lost a potentially superior accordion. It surely deserved to be rescued and made playable, if possible.

And then, on Fathers' Day (3 Sept. in NZ), my wonderful daughter presented me with a large box. She had persuaded the seller to send the accordion to her!

I had resigned myself to my 'loss', and the possibility that this accordion had been lost to the world, and had just about convinced myself that the thing was probably too far gone, or had been raided for its reeds, or that, because Domestic Management keeps telling me I have an enormous backlog of more important things to do, I was better off without it. However, now it's here, and it's going to be quite a project! It will be a complete strip-down and rebuild. I quite understand that it wouldn't be a commercially viable undertaking, but it's not going to cost all that much in parts (apart from the mute 'lids'), and my labour is free - and I enjoy this sorth of thing, so it's fun.

At first sight, from the outside, it looked rather dismal. Five of the six mute 'lids' are missing, the plating of the sixth is a mess. The black celluloid is scratched, furry-dull and filthy, and an area is damaged, with some missing. Moving the bellows produced sundry unauthorized wheezes and squeaks. The bellows locking mechanism is missing. A couple of keys stick, and the facings of two have separated from the wood. Neither treble nor bass switches worked. Treble grille/cover thumbscrews (?) have been replaced by self-tappers, wrecking the threaded inserts, one of which appears to have been dug out with pliers (Aargh! Morons!). Strap attachment bracket plating is alarmingly corroded, which looked like a bad omen.

I feared the worst as I opened the box, having discovered corroded-solid slides, corroded, immovable fixings, and widespread moth attack in my little Paramount box, whose restoration progresses slowly (much indecision about sourcing parts and materials).

But, inside, it's all there, except for the moving parts of the bellows locking mechanism! No corrosion! Every screw tested so far can be turned. All slides move freely, albeit a bit 'scratchily'). As one would expect, it needs all the reed valves to be replaced, some attention to the pallets, and some keys need to be freed up. A couple of white keys look to have warped sideways a little. It was a welcome bonus to discover individually removable keys. The reeds (not hand-made) are all present, only a few with minimal surface rust spotting, the bellows look reasonable (can't test yet), and haven't been damaged by the (missing) locking claws. It has been dropped on its feet, one foot is missing, the bass plate is a bit bent, and the adjacent woodwork has suffered consequent damage with cracks, but none is missing. Oh joy - a removable bass machine - and not mangled! A few bass buttons are a little wonky, their pistons being a little bent, just below the buttons.

A couple of the treble reed blocks are warped, the fingers of the rotating parts of the bass switch mechanism are variously bent (how on earth...?), but, mercifully without damage to the alloy actuator slides upon which they bear.

There is damage to the celluloid at the tight compound curve at the lower edge to the front right corner of the side of the keyboard, with an area of it missing. This is my main worry, having no experience of such work, or of having worked celluloid. Happily, the matt-finish celluloid polishes up easily, so that's a relief, and the lack of pattern should make celluloid repairs easier. The other work required doesn't really frighten me - although the sheer amount is rather daunting - and I'm equipped and happy to make components in metal, wood and plastic. I aim to return this box to its former glory, but it's going to take a long time...

So I'd like to throw myself at the mercy of the forum: I'll need help with this job, and getting any in New Zealand is very unlikely. I don't know enough about accordions... The biggest questions (at the moment...) are:

1) Can anyone supply information to allow me to make the bellows locking mechanism? Photos with a ruler included, dimensioned drawings, etc. would be ideal - a big ask, I know. (Ffingers, are you feeling generous?)

2) I may have misunderstood this, but the flat, pierced, alloy treble pallets seem to be held onto the key rods by a strip of thin leather, probably glued (the exuded material is transparent and brittle, unlike wax) the leather being wound around the key rod and through parallel slots in the middle of the pallet, between which the pallet material is raised (so the leather thickness doesn't deform the felt). This appears to bind the pallet to the rod (see pix). Have I understood correctly? Is this a standard technique? Can it be non-destructively taken apart and the pallet re-attached, and without having to start the binding process from scratch? Some pallets need to be moved, some, perhaps all, will need to be re-faced.

DSCF0078.JPG

DSCF0081.JPG

DSCF0087.JPG


2a) When re-facing, how does one decide the thickness of pallet facings to use (there are different thicknesses on the treble side, presumably non-original)? I realise that this will affect key height, but this can be altered.

3) The original mute 'lids' are in two parts. The main 'lid' parts are missing. It looks like they were originally soldered to the short, hinge parts, all of which remain. These appear to be soldered to brass bushes, which are rotated by screws in the actuating rod. One-piece mute covers are available from Carini "De.Na." and others: they are made differently, however their major dimensions are probably compatible, but it's not clear how they are supposed to be attached to the bushes. (And how on earth does one navigate the chaos that is Carini's web site?)

3a) Are there the equivalent of 'car breakers' who supply salvaged used parts for old boxes?

4) The bass strap is screwed directly to the case with two woodscrews and washers - there's no hook. Is this likely to be original?

The treble switch keys and the white piano keys are yellowed and stripey'. Is this an intentional faux bone effect, or is this the effect of age and staining? A gentle exploratory polish of the master switch didn't change it much. Of course, if it's intentional, I don't wish to risk rubbing it off.

DSCF0076.JPG

DSCF0093.JPG

5) What timber is likely to have been used for the casework? Poplar, perhaps?

6) Is it likely to be fruitful to contact present-day Scandalli (in English...) for information?

7) Am I asking too many questions...?
 
KS,
Lovely story, thanks for sharing!❤️
You'll certainly have your hands full!🙂
Regarding the wood used, I think I've heard poplar and basswood mentioned. Still, almost any kind of easily worked, straight grained , seasoned timber, at hand, should do for repairs.🙂
Happy restoring!🙂
 
lol.. to write to Scandalli today about this model..
about any actual Scandalli that was built by Scandalli ?
that would be a hoot

so your individual treble keys and drop out bass mech. tells us that
this was built in the latter days of the Hubcap line's existence

the method of attaching the treble pallets was one of his good ideas,
becauae it allowed just a bit of flex, meaning it was "self-leveling" to a small
but useful degree. If you can become handy at replacing them, fine,
but you can also just get a fresh set of old style wood pallets and wax them
on to the arms, abandoning the aluminum ones. While they look like
little pieces of leather, i believe they are actually a type of dense
man-made almost rubbery material that has some squish to it. i have
seen it in a red color too that was more obviously not leather.. maybe there
is a modern Urethane strip material that could substitute..

because the material here is deteriorated, then those little rubber o-rings
that hold the Bass linkage from falling out when you turn the bass mech
upside down are likely brittle and ready to go as well.

the faux ivory graining was a popular effect on accordions for keytops too,
and it is very Italian in that my Great Uncle Greg used to do a similar
Faux Oak graining on staircases and doors with some cool old roller tools
that i actually still have, so yes don't rub too hard cleaning those shifts !

well your Daughter really got you ! good on her little devious and generous heart..

best of luck with the restoration, i hope it is great fun for you to play as
you start to get it in shape, and i am sure your Family will keep this Scandalli
and it's story for generations to come
 
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