What are the best ways to remove rust from reeds?

[boxplayer4000]

Thanks KiwiSqueezer. Good to get some input from outwith the accordion bubble.

 

[Ventura]

"and residual graphite, used as a drawing lubricant in the manufacture of copper pipes, is the cause of pin-hole pipe perforations "

that is the first time i ever heard the reason for those random pinhole
in copper (water pipes here in the District) which we have been plagued
with for 70 years now and still occasionally another one begins to seep

doesn't change the pain in the neck that it still is, but nice to know why,
and i wonder why they never gave the explanation over here !

obviously they changed the practice, as replacement copper pipes
do not have the issue, so they knew !

we had a tremendous baby boom fueled housing boom in the 1950's, and literally
all those tracts of "modern" ranch style homes that were built had this problem
to deal with as the years passed

 

[KiwiSqueezer]

I should have said "and residual graphite, used as a drawing lubricant in the manufacture of copper pipes, is thought to be one cause of pin-hole pipe perforations". The jury's out, and there are many theories - perhaps many causes, too, ranging from bacteria to abrasion by solid particles in the water. Clearly it's a complex issue. However, the copper-carbon electrochemical cell idea is theoretically sound, and I believe that the tube makers use other drawing lubricants now.

 

[Big Squeezy Accordions]

I use a Dremel with a circular brass brush for removing rust from reeds.

 

[Dingo40]

BSA,
Personally,I like it but is there any problem with brass particle contamination ?
What does KS think?
Also, are your brushes "genuine brass" or brass coated steel?( Apparently, genuine brass brushes can be difficult to obtain!)

 

[KiwiSqueezer]

Good questions, Dingo. Unfortunately, it's true that brass-plated steel brushes often masquerade as brass brushes - you can't trust certain manufacturing super-powers. Beware high spindle speeds and wire brushes. It's recommended to run new brushes at full speed for a couple of minutes to encourage the loose 'bristles' to fly out before using in earnest. Wear eye protection! Copper and its alloys (including brass) in the eye is a medical emergency. Copper destroys eyes! If there's ANY chance you've suffered a penetrating eye injury, get to hospital double-quick!

Whilst brass brushes seem attractive for their softness, compared to steel reed material, the possibility of brass contamination of the steel surface is real. This is theoretically a potential problem. Whether this is actually likely to encourage dissimilar metal corrosion in practice, I don't know. Best to avoid the possibility of moisture, of course.

I wouldn't worry about using stainless steel brushes (gently) in a Dremel, (although see next para). They're easy to get, and relatively cheap. I've used them a lot. Reed material is pretty hard, so the risk of damage is small. I'd think that if there were a need to be so rough with the reeds that damage was a risk, they'd probably be too far gone. (Actually, I'm making an assumption here. I'm assuming that reeds will be spring steel. I'm aware that other materials are used for musical reeds, but would think that, if it looks like steel, it will have a moderately hard surface. If I'm wrong about this, someone will punish me for my ignorance, I expect!)

Glass-fibre 'pencils' are great for this type of fine work. No risk of a rapidly-moving 'bristle' snagging in the gap between reed and reed plate.

 

[JIM D.]

https://www.amazon.com/Trolleycar-Bristles-Softens-Restores-Texture/dp/B079JRZ717/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3SP73SNHVJHVQ&keywords=brass+shoe+brush&qid=1666098360&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjk1IiwicXNhIjoiMy4yMiIsInFzcCI6IjMuMTAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=brass+shoe+%2Caps%2C911&sr=8-7

 

[Big Squeezy Accordions]

Good questions, Dingo. Unfortunately, it's true that brass-plated steel brushes often masquerade as brass brushes - you can't trust certain manufacturing super-powers. Beware high spindle speeds and wire brushes. It's recommended to run new brushes at full speed for a couple of minutes to encourage the loose 'bristles' to fly out before using in earnest. Wear eye protection! Copper and its alloys (including brass) in the eye is a medical emergency. Copper destroys eyes! If there's ANY chance you've suffered a penetrating eye injury, get to hospital double-quick!

Whilst brass brushes seem attractive for their softness, compared to steel reed material, the possibility of brass contamination of the steel surface is real. This is theoretically a potential problem. Whether this is actually likely to encourage dissimilar metal corrosion in practice, I don't know. Best to avoid the possibility of moisture, of course.

I wouldn't worry about using stainless steel brushes (gently) in a Dremel, (although see next para). They're easy to get, and relatively cheap. I've used them a lot. Reed material is pretty hard, so the risk of damage is small. I'd think that if there were a need to be so rough with the reeds that damage was a risk, they'd probably be too far gone. (Actually, I'm making an assumption here. I'm assuming that reeds will be spring steel. I'm aware that other materials are used for musical reeds, but would think that, if it looks like steel, it will have a moderately hard surface. If I'm wrong about this, someone will punish me for my ignorance, I expect!)

Glass-fibre 'pencils' are great for this type of fine work. No risk of a rapidly-moving 'bristle' snagging in the gap between reed and reed plate.

Thanks for the info. I use the lowest Dremel speed for this already. I wear glasses, which should protect me from flying bristles. The only problem I've encountered is, as I work from home and don't wear shoes, I find I am often picking brass bristles out of the soles of my feet. I'll get some glass fiber pencils and give that a try.