What are the best ways to remove rust from reeds?

[pillbugg]

Pictured here are a few reeds that I have took out from the reed block. They were previously covered in old, powdery wax. They are corroded. From what I read so far, there are numerous ways to remove rust from metal. I wonder which is the best way? According to accordionrevival.com, a small brass wire brush should do the trick?

 

[JIM D.]

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Use Naphtha for cleaner --

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[pillbugg]

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Use Naphtha for cleaner --

Klean Strip Varnish Maker and Painter's Naphtha 1 qt - Ace Hardware

Whether you're a contractor who needs to get multiple coats down in a limited time or a do-it-yourselfer who wants great results fast, use Klean-Strip VM and P Naphtha in place of Paint Thinner for oil-based paint, varnish and enamel.Find the VM&P NAPHTHA QT at Ace.

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Thank you!

 

[pillbugg]

So with reeds, is it recommended to remove the rust only with mechanical force (brush), without the use of some sort of liquid such as WD40?
Then after removing the rust, you clean them with naphtha?

 

[JIM D.]

It will depend on the degree of rust formation.

 

[JerryPH]

So with reeds, is it recommended to remove the rust only with mechanical force (brush), without the use of some sort of liquid such as WD40?
Then after removing the rust, you clean them with naphtha?

WD40 is the wrong product for rust removal. WD stands for "water displacement" it does this by inserting a layer of oil on the surface. It does nothing more for rust than a wet piece of paper would and the LAST thing you want are greased/oiled reeds.

 

[Dingo40]

Not to mention valves!
I imagine, a layer of WD40 would make applying accordion wax rather tricky!

 

[donn]

Just from the picture, I expect to see advice like "forget it, those reeds are toast!" I have an accordion with a little rust in it, and I had been thinking of it as a problem that wasn't worth trying to solve, but if those reeds are worth it, maybe mine are. (I forget, it's been a while since I looked in there.) Do you think the rust is only on the outside surface that we can see?

(hm, first thing I've posted here under the new regime. Freaky graphics.)

 

[pillbugg]

Just from the picture, I expect to see advice like "forget it, those reeds are toast!" I have an accordion with a little rust in it, and I had been thinking of it as a problem that wasn't worth trying to solve, but if those reeds are worth it, maybe mine are. (I forget, it's been a while since I looked in there.) Do you think the rust is only on the outside surface that we can see?

(hm, first thing I've posted here under the new regime. Freaky graphics.)

A few of the reed tongues appear to have rust on the other (blue) side too.

 

[Jomme]

Depends how much you want them to be in tune and stay in tune long I gues....

 

[pillbugg]

Is it a good idea to let the reeds sit in naphtha overnight?

 

[Dingo40]

I doubt naptha affects rust in any way whatsoever (apart from making a mess) !
Gun shops and car body supplies shops sell liquid materials that actually attack and neutralise rust. I'd try them.
There's this kind of thing: (many others online)

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There's, also, similar products for cleaning oxide off aluminium like your reed plates are made of: just Google!

 

[pillbugg]

I doubt naptha affects rust in any way whatsoever (apart from making a mess) !
Gun shops and car body supplies shops sell liquid materials that actually attack and neutralise rust. I'd try them.
There's this kind of thing: (many others online)

Rust Away - Expert Rust Remover & Cleaner | Sealers Online

Unleash the power of Rust Away, your solution for rust removal on sensitive surfaces. Explore our rust cleaner for homes and commercial spaces today.

www.sealersonline.com.au

There's, also, similar products for cleaning oxide off aluminium like your reed plates are made of: just Google!

Many thanks Dingo! What about for simply cleaning them, such as removing previous wax and gunk? Is putting them in Naphtha overnight good for that? What about isopropyl alcohol? Is 91% isopropyl alcohol also good enough for cleaning them?

 

[Dingo40]

I imagine naphtha could help with wax, but I think it would be instructive to hear from Paul Debra and JimD regarding what they do when cleaning older wax from the reed plates and reed blocks
Some recent posters have described excellent results for clearing wax, rust, whatever from accordion parts using the supersonic vibrating cleaning gadgets made for cleaning jewellery: no fuss, no mess, just a great result!

 

[pillbugg]

I imagine naphtha could help with wax, but I think it would be instructive to hear from Paul Debra and JimD regarding what they do when cleaning older wax from the reed plates and reed blocks
Some recent posters have described excellent results for clearing wax, rust, whatever from accordion parts using the supersonic vibrating cleaning gadgets made for cleaning jewellery: no fuss, no mess, just a great result!

I've heard of the little ultrasonic jewelry cleaners and I'm tempted to buy one, especially because they're mess free. But yeah, let's wait for the others' input.

 

[debra]

For the reeds in this bad condition the best way to get rid of the rust is to throw the reeds away and replace them by new reeds.
(I know, it's a bit extreme as rust-removal method, but it will most certainly get rid of the rust.)

 

[JIM D.]

I can only echo Paul's comment here. The reeds in your pic's are toast. The amount of oxidation on these reed
tongues even with cleaning will result in a week tongue that has also lost its temper.

 

[pillbugg]

I see. Thanks for the honest responses. Here's how a set of the reeds look like after I wiped them with naphtha and brushed them in an attempt to remove the rust. The reed tongues have a lot of gray blotches on them still (reed tongue on the reed on furthest left for example):



I also bought another used and larger accordion and the reeds in it seem to be in better condition. I think... (I've yet to clean them). What are your opinions on these reeds?:

 

[Tom]

What are your opinions on these reeds?:

Leathers look shot. Good luck!

 

[KiwiSqueezer]

Late to the party... Excuse me for poking my nose in: I know little about accordions, but I DO know a bit about engineering...

Rust removal by chemical means (acids and/or chelating agents), in this application, risks the possibility of setting off dissimilar metal (galvanic) corrosion, where electrolyte remains trapped between reed and reed plate. Also, depending on the material used for the reed plate, the acid may attack it more than it removes rust. Therefore, I think chemical removal is best avoided. As has been said, WD40 has no effect on rust, other than providing a medium to 'wash' it off. Also, any residual film of WD40 will tend to oxidise to a sticky gum, which will hold dust, etc. Again, best to avoid water-displacement or corrosion-protection fluids. Certainly don't rub pencil/graphite onto reeds, as I've seen advocated. This will set up an electro-chemical cell, if there's moisture present, and thus corrosion. It's for this reason that marking aircraft components with pencil is prohibited, and residual graphite, used as a drawing lubricant in the manufacture of copper pipes, is the cause of pin-hole pipe perforations, which keep plumbers wealthy!

Faber-Castell and others produce propelling-pencil-like things that hold tight bundles of glass fibres. Originally produced as drafting film erasers (to remove indian ink), they are now used a lot in fine manufacturing as abrasive brushes. Gentle, but very effective against light rust. It's also possible to get brass and stainless steel refills for them. Essential toolkit items! There are also similar, but smaller diameter items, often with 'ceramic' fibres. Good for very fine work, but very expensive.

'Naphtha' is rather a dustbin term for light petroleum distillates. 'White spirit' or 'Mineral turps' could also be called 'naphtha'. Xylene is a good/better wax solvent. It may be difficult to get, but some paintbrush cleaners/restorers contain it. Just be careful when buying such stuff - it's often difficult to tell from the packaging just what's inside...